Author Topic: Starting a turbo build...Videos of it running :D  (Read 93412 times)

Reply #30December 12, 2008, 09:11:45 am

arb

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« Reply #30 on: December 12, 2008, 09:11:45 am »
Is it possible it had a small tag on it and it is what's left from a pop rivet ? Often manufacturing tags higher end parts for the manufacturing process. Today its almost always a bar code if they want to track a part, but back then, maybe they tagged it where it would not interfere with anything else.

Reply #31December 13, 2008, 08:41:48 am

theman53

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« Reply #31 on: December 13, 2008, 08:41:48 am »
could be. I just wanted to know if anyone had seen or had issues with this before. like I said it looks like a pop rivot, but I don't think it is. There is no center to it. Main thing is that the hole where it is located does not go through the block and there isn't going to be water pressure or oil pressure so if there is a leak then I will use one of my 3 things that fix the world if all else fails...Zip ties, duct tape, and JB cold weld :D This would fall into the last of the 3. If you guys want I could take pics of the bores, but not much else is going on now. I need to get the car ready before engine going in.
Another note. I put the IM shaft in to see how it fit and it was so tight I didn't think it would go. When it left here it was so loose it came right out no problem. The machinist measured everything, so I know it is correct, but I couldn't believe the difference. I had him measure each piston and mark it and bore the hole for that piston. Each hole to the piston has around a +/- .0005 tolerance and I believe the spec for new bore was .001. I hope this all works as good as I have planned.

Reply #32January 02, 2009, 09:42:37 pm

theman53

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« Reply #32 on: January 02, 2009, 09:42:37 pm »
I have 2 important questions and will be posting a pic later of the block.
1. I read the FAQ about 1.6TD a faster car...just to be clear are the blow off valve and wastegates needed at all?The way I understand I can delete the BOV and add a manual boost controller in place of the wastegate.

2. I have some lines like someone dropped a chisel on my deck of the block. The machinist that bored it said it was ok, but I don't like the looks of it. It looks like a HG failure waiting to happen. The 2nd question is how much can your block be taken down without it being too much?Pic to further explain comming.

Reply #33January 02, 2009, 09:56:04 pm

TurboJ

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« Reply #33 on: January 02, 2009, 09:56:04 pm »
Quote from: "theman53"
I have 2 important questions and will be posting a pic later of the block.
1. I read the FAQ about 1.6TD a faster car...just to be clear are the blow off valve and wastegates needed at all?The way I understand I can delete the BOV and add a manual boost controller in place of the wastegate.



In order for the manual boost controller to work, you need the wastegate.
Blocking the wastegate that people are doing will mean there's no way to control max boost, other than by adjusting fuelling.
With a manual boost controller you can leave the W/G doing it's job but you will be able to set it to open at a desired boost pressure.

For example, I have a 1.15 bar waste gate spring on my Schwitzer turbo.
I will then use a manual boost controller to up the boost somewhere in the 2 bar range.

BTW, if you are planning on running a considerably higher boost pressure than stock, you may need a stronger waste gate spring if you want to youse the MBC to full effect.
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Jetta II 1.6 TD 'Project 200'

Reply #34January 02, 2009, 10:03:57 pm

theman53

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« Reply #34 on: January 02, 2009, 10:03:57 pm »
From my last post pics



I can't get any better pic. There are 2 lines leading from almost the waterjacket to almost the combustion ring and almost to the back of the block. The one to the combustion ring I can't get my fingernail into, the other I can. It was magnafluxed and came back good, but these just seem to make me nervous.

Reply #35January 02, 2009, 10:05:56 pm

theman53

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« Reply #35 on: January 02, 2009, 10:05:56 pm »
the main reason I asked about the BOV was that I don't have one at all. THe intake I bought just doesn't have it on there. I will get a MBC and not block the wastegate? But could I just close the hole on the intake manifold for a BOV delete?

Reply #36January 02, 2009, 10:23:04 pm

cyrus #1

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« Reply #36 on: January 02, 2009, 10:23:04 pm »
Quote from: "theman53"
the main reason I asked about the BOV was that I don't have one at all. THe intake I bought just doesn't have it on there. I will get a MBC and not block the wastegate? But could I just close the hole on the intake manifold for a BOV delete?


The manual boost controller will need to be plumbed inline with the wastegate.  You can plug the blow off valve hole with no worries.  Just be sure that it will hold a decent amount of pressure.
Cody

2002 Jetta TDI
2000 Jetta TDI - R.I.P.
1990 Jetta 8v-Eventually to be 1.6TD

Reply #37January 03, 2009, 11:03:51 am

TurboJ

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« Reply #37 on: January 03, 2009, 11:03:51 am »
Quote from: "theman53"
the main reason I asked about the BOV was that I don't have one at all. THe intake I bought just doesn't have it on there. I will get a MBC and not block the wastegate? But could I just close the hole on the intake manifold for a BOV delete?


Yeah, the blow-off is completely useless. I would just weld the hole shut and be done with it.

And yes, if you want to use an MBC, you can't block the waste gate. What the MBC does is allow you to choose when the wastegate will open. If it's blocked, it obviously won't open at all.
I think you really should go with an MBC rather than blocking the W/G.
A blocked waste gate will allow as much boost as the turbo can possibly produce, which means it will be operating way past its safe limits.
That'll lead to frequent turbo failures in the long run.

Some people think you get more power when you add more boost, but this is only true until a certain point. If you are constantly over cooking a turbo by letting it boost 30 psi when optimum range ends at 14 psi, the produced airflow will actually start to decrease when you go far enough over the turbo's limits.

One more thing about turbo pressure - psi isn't always equal to engine power by any means. You can tell just as much by looking at what type turbo the engine has. One real-life example: My old Saab 2.0 gas turbo would make 268 hp at 13 psi of boost on it's big motorsport turbocharger, while another similar car needed 24 psi to make as much hp with a standard, small turbo.

Don't go past the turbo's natural limits - it's a waste of energy and money  :wink:
---------------------------------------
Jetta II 1.6 TD 'Project 200'

Reply #38January 03, 2009, 12:04:47 pm

theman53

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« Reply #38 on: January 03, 2009, 12:04:47 pm »
Great to know. I am a turbo newbie and have researched a ton, but never actually owned one until the one that I have on the engine stand. I figured I would run about 18-20 psi eventually, but I don't know for sure. It will be my daily driver and needs to be reliable first. The 18-20 range is about where the guy who ported the head said I should have optimum power. Not that it couldn't do a little more, but he said with the porting and some valve overlap when you get in the upper 20s you will be loosing some cylinder pressure by blowing it out the exhaust. Which he said would give more spool but not enough for the gains for what I wanted in a daily driver. That plus more strain on the turbo left me with the idea of 18-20psi.
What about the crappy pics of the dents in the block and how much can you take off the deck?

Reply #39February 08, 2009, 10:39:11 am

theman53

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« Reply #39 on: February 08, 2009, 10:39:11 am »
OK I got all my bearings and I am ready to put the pistons in so I can measure the protrution. What can I use for a ring compressor? The one I have will never get down that small. I think its for 4.00-4.25" and our bore around 3".
Or is there a way to get the rings out without breaking them? It would work alot easier that way to check things and then the rings wouldn't be sitting there not moving for another 3 months. I want to be sure to get this correct as I am going to go with the MLS for the 1.9  and plug the extra hole. I will also drill the water holes, but I want to do all this while it is apart and I can clean it in the basement.
Any suggestions or things that you guys have done would be great.

Reply #40February 08, 2009, 10:17:03 pm

camboscams

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« Reply #40 on: February 08, 2009, 10:17:03 pm »
Hey Guys, i'm way behind on asking this question but why do you turn down your Intermediate shaft? for less rotating mass? so the engine will rev quicker???         Just wondering, Thanks
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Reply #41February 08, 2009, 10:39:42 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #41 on: February 08, 2009, 10:39:42 pm »
Quote from: "camboscams"
Hey Guys, i'm way behind on asking this question but why do you turn down your Intermediate shaft? for less rotating mass? so the engine will rev quicker???         Just wondering, Thanks


every little bit helps  :lol: apparently it's not very balanced, and wobbles a lot on a lathe.  turning it down might actually increase bearing life... which is crucial for oil pressure etc.

it only spins at half rpm though, so it should never see more than 3000 rpm (and thats on a crazy Giles pump modded car)


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Reply #42February 08, 2009, 10:44:23 pm

camboscams

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« Reply #42 on: February 08, 2009, 10:44:23 pm »
Thanks JT for getting back so quickly. Strange that volkwagen made something that wasn't perfect.... They must have subbed out the Iitermediate shaft manufacturing to someone else :wink:
81' White 1.6l Rabbit 4dr Holseted
72' Ford F-250 390cid
2014 JSW 2.0L TDI Stg 2, CP3 HPFP

Reply #43February 08, 2009, 11:23:00 pm

Smokey Eddy

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« Reply #43 on: February 08, 2009, 11:23:00 pm »
my ALH intake doesn't have a BOV spot either. I did that on purpose.  :roll:

I don't think it fits the 1.6td head though? I have it on an AAZ head
Ed
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Reply #44February 09, 2009, 07:34:09 am

theman53

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« Reply #44 on: February 09, 2009, 07:34:09 am »
what about a ring compressor what are you guys doing ?