Author Topic: Will the manual steering rack fit... (Read 3516 times)

madmedix · « **on:** August 21, 2008, 08:18:31 pm »

Hi Folks:

Will a manual steering rack off an '87 Golf fit into a 92 Jetta that currently has a really leaky power rack?

burn_your_money · « **Reply #1 on:** August 21, 2008, 10:19:22 pm »

It should. Remember that you will also need the U-joint from the manual rack and tie rod ends

gigaz2 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 22, 2008, 06:09:17 am »

and the rubber that holds the rack, the clips are the same I think

madmedix · « **Reply #3 on:** August 22, 2008, 08:50:11 pm »

OK Groovy. I'm toying with the idea of making a really good car out of the two of them....

Andy

shortysclimbin · « **Reply #4 on:** September 18, 2008, 11:38:04 am »

you can even use the poly ones if you modify them to fit... I have a mk2 non powered rack in a mk2 on a mk3 subframe it works If I swap a few more pieces and bits around... ow and weld some items...

your should be drop in though.

madmedix · « **Reply #5 on:** September 25, 2008, 06:57:01 pm »

Guys, when you pull either a power or manual rack, keep your eyes on the what looks like well, cut pieces of pipe, that the mounting bolts (studs) run through inside the subframe. These are not available from the stealership apparently, and they will roll out when you remove the bolts (studs).

Cheers,
Andy

Kevin L · « **Reply #6 on:** October 20, 2008, 10:11:35 am »

I too have a leaking power steering unit (rusted lines) I have drained most of the ps fluid and removed the pump's belt. Been driving that way for awhile. It is OK but a little tight When having to park.
So the question is
Does the manual rack have a better mechanical advantage (ie easier to steer) than the power unit?

I have a donar but don't want to go through all the trouble if there is no noticable benifit.

rallydiesel · « **Reply #7 on:** October 20, 2008, 11:48:23 am »

Yes, the ratio is different in the manual rack.

madmedix · « **Reply #8 on:** October 29, 2008, 08:25:50 pm »

I love the feel of the manual rack at speed. The power rack is a nice convenience but I shudder every time I see someone turn the wheels and the car isn't moving (no matter what the make). Keeps mechanics employed anyways

madmedix · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2008, 11:31:12 am »

In case you folks have to have a go at this in a driveway like I did...

- Pull out the a-arms first, and set the teeth of a floor jack about the middle of the subframe. The 3 grooves on the bottom of the subframe mesh with the teeth of the jack nicely. Without the ball joints on the a-arms/arms removed from car, it balances pretty nicely on the jack going up. (Hydraulic hoist is holding the engine/tranny).

- When you change out the steering knuckle (or u-joint), it will try to move off-side of the steering rack input shaft no matter how you dance with it. I found that a cheapie nail puller from a dollar store (about 8") fits in the bottom end of the joint and against the firewall just perfectly. One little pry with this bar and it just "snicked" into place.

Andy

madmedix · « **Reply #10 on:** November 07, 2008, 08:38:30 pm »

Hey Tyler, remember I told you the bolts are a serious trick on these things? This is why the studs won't turn...

Notice the fins just under the bolt shoulder? (they're smaller then normal cuz this one needed...persuading.....They "mash" into the subframe and lock them. So it appears the best route is take of the nuts and PRESS the studs out with big "c" mouth vice grips or some such?
Andy