Project Turbo 1.9L 1Y Diesel begins...>

[fspGTD]

I'd say it would be about the same overall value as a factory 1.6lTD conversion kit would run.  I would say it depends on their completeness and their condition.  A complete good condition turbo kit with fresh, new or rebuilt turbo could fetch above $1000 I would think (probably not much above $2000 unless utilizing some exotic technology), but an incomplete kit or with a trashed turbo might not even be worth $100, or sum of it's parts.  I have seen them on sale from time to time on e-bay, this forum, and other places with prices varying but generally a good used turbo is worth at least a couple hundred dollars.  BAE sold a nonwastegated turbo in addition to the wastegated version by the way.  The nonwastegated turbo ran most boost pressure I think and made more peak horsepower (more than a factory 1.6lTD in HP numbers I believe), but the wastegated turbo made a broader powerband so is really more "driveable" and had better acceleration times, even though the peak hp figure was lower.

PS - Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but although your intake manifold has the proper "D" shaped ports needed for your 1.9l, and the thermal barrier coating will help keep the heat from the turbo out - no question - I should point out that the design of the runners and plenum of that manifold is lacking, IMO.  The runner lengths are short and also are unevenly matched lengths comparing #1 and #4 versus #2 and #3.  There is essentially no plenum in the design of that manifold, and there is an unbalanced abrupt angle in the air tract from the ram pipe to #1 and #4 cylinder runners (while the ram pipe is essentially straight shot to cylinders #2 and #3.)

I will hopefully be testing a short runner 1.6lTD manifold versus a longer runner manifold here shortly.  You may wish to proceed forward with the current intake manifold you've got there, and wait for my test results to see what difference the long runners and ample plenum volume makes.  Then you could decide later if it's worth changing yours.  The good thing about your low-hanging turbo location, unlike the factory 1.6lTD, is it leaves plenty of room for bolting on pretty much anything to your intake ports...  

It looks like your turbo and exhaust manifold leaves enough room to bolt up one of the BAE or spearco intake manifolds, or pretty much any intake manifold from another factory VW application.  To use another one of those manifolds however and get good performance out of them, you would need to port match their ports to your 1.9l's "D" shaped ports however.  I have heard of people doing this on 1.9D longblock conversions, not sure how much meat would be left on the manifold gasket surface after removing all the material to make the required "D" shape though.  Someone here probably knows!

All that said, I think you're going to love the added performance boost your turbo provides when you are done installing it, regardless of what intake manifold goes on there!  

[Staley]

Jake,
I have the original manifold "O" port manifold on the "D" port head now.
I have a metal spacer with 2 gaskets.. 1 "D" gasket against the cylinder head and 1 "O" gasket
against the manifold with the spacer in the middle. It works great with no leaks.

The ATP turbo manifold was made for the gasser engine.. so you are correct about using any intake
manifold. When you get your testing finished I would be really intrested in the results.  I have several
old GTI intakes and such that I could use.  or find a later year "D" intake.

I am going to attempt to complete the interior of the car soon.
I have a real nice cabrio dash in black that I am going to use.
It is so darn loud inside! I also need carpet and such.
I ordered the complete A1 seal kit from Far Out Parts.
and a new center console.

I will snap some more recent pictures of the car.  I bought this stuff called Quiet Car.. it is a
Dynamat in liquid form.. I have completely coated the interior of the car with it.. You
spray it in like a bedliner.  It has made a VAST difference in cabin noise.  and It has been on the car for a year now..
with no carpet and wears very well.  I replaced the wheels with some teardrops and they work MUCH better.
I installed a set of Neuspeed sport springs to give it that aggressive look.

I was playing around the other day with the max fueling screw...
 :twisted:

I had it set so under hard acceleration it smokes some.. then I gave it a whirl..
now if you lug it or hang a leg in it.. it smokes like a 18 wheeler!
it is great!  find a sucker with their windows open or top down and stick it in 5th at 30 mph... and floor it!
I need to turn it down some because it just seems like it has WAY too much fuel..
but it sure does make for amusing driving

Have a great weekend
Later,
Mike


what would you suggest for pump timing I have it set at 1mm.
should I lower it to .8-.85 with the turbo?

[Staley]

Here are some pictures that I took today.

[Staley]

I parked the Rabbit Friday evening and started taking it apart.
I am going to do the serpentine belt conversion and turbo kit together to save me some downtime.

Here are some pictures with the T3 installed on the car.
The downpipe is going to be rather tight because of the shifter linkage.
I will start working on the downpipe next week when my stainless bends arrive.  I shipped a turbo fuel injection pump to Giles yesterday!
next step is to figure out what to do with the injectors. I have the n/a 1.9L ones.

Catcha later!
Mike

[turbodirectinjection]

Your car is so cool Mike.  

[Staley]

Well.. Lots of progress has been made in the last week.
Giles has sent back my tricked out injection pump.
My serpentine belt parts are arriving..
I picked up an engine oil cooler with a fan! I would imagine that engine
oil temps are going to be a LOT higher now from the 20PSI that Giles recommended I run.
I picked up the T3 flanges that I had had water cut in 304 to match the 304 stainless pipe for the exhaust.

I spent about 20 minutes after work today and started to make/weld the downpipe
from some used mandrel 2.25" sections that I had laying around.
The bends are going to be CLOSE because of the shifter. I tried to cut some 2.5" bends
and hold them up to the flange..  Unfortunately I just can not make the 2.5" fit.  I am going to put a flex
coupler in the downpipe and then make it 2.25 into the coupler and 2.5 out.
I'll shoot another picture of the downpipe on the car tomorrow.

I can't wait to drive this monster!

Here are some photos.
later
Mike

[Staley]

OH.. I sent the Spearco fuel riser to Giles..
he said it's worthless unless he made a new fuel pin for it.
The device gives only like 1mm of fuel pin movement
LOL

but.. it still looks really cool!

[fspGTD]

Nice lookin' goods!  

1mm fuel pin movement could be very noticeable... that would be like turning the full load screw in nearly an entire turn.  Probably not enough to take full advantage of your planned 20 intercooled psi though!

What is that little tab bracket welded to the top of your downpipe?  Good looking welds by the way.  TIG?  304 stainless flange to match the tubing is a very nice detail.

Edit: oh by the way I also had a very tight fitting downpipe with the shift linkage very near in my ongoing TDI VNT turbo Rabbit 1.6 project.  I was able to make the mandrel bent tubing tighter radius by cutting little pie or wedge-shaped sections out of the bent tubing, and welding those sections together.  This pic shows the sections of the area with the tight bend well:

[Staley]

Jake,
I figured you had to make that turn extra tight.
I was looking at your turbo pictures and noticed that your downturn starts
below the shift lever.  With the ATP turbo manifold my discharge
sits high above the shifter lever.. so I have to make that sharp bend to clear it. It still needs some work.
catcha later
mike

[Staley]

Jake,
I used some old pieces of pipe that I had at the shop.  I previously used the pipe for an intake on some old turbo kit that I made several years back..
It was a bracket to hold the inlet to the head.  It looked cool.. and was already welded on.. so I left it.
I have a "classic oldie" 300 amp Hobart Tig welder that my buddy gave me! It has variable ramp and pulse options too. It welds aluminum with ease.  
I traded him engine mounts installed on his Lexus for the welder.  It is HUGE 3 feet across by 4 feet tall by 5 feet deep! (or close too it)
I'll snap a picture of it.. it'll make you laugh.
I worked on the downpipe after work tonight. I have to weld on the flex section tomorrow night and it'll be finished.
Here is a picture of me welding a Mitsubishi Evolution exhaust with it 2 weeks ago.


with my new fancy Ultra Tig welding gloves
I like my old thick ones better... the heat transfer on the new thin ones
will make you burn the $hit out of your hands when you accidently grab what you just welded.

Here is a link to my last exhaust project.  My Buisness Manager has
an 03 EVO with the Vishnu v390 excede and misc stuff like that on the car. We Dyno'd the car at 360 WHP on 104.
I cut the flange off the Greddy exhaust where it mated to the catalyst because it was 2 3/4 inches.. the high flow catalyst was 3"
so I welded on a new 3" flange to match.  Then we welded a new 3" center resonater on the car.. The one that was on the Greddy necked down to 2 1/4 inside.
The car picked up some decent top end from the mods.
Clicky Clicky

The guy with the glasses is Jorge.. not me! LOL
you can see my Rabbit in the background.

[Staley]

The downpipe is almost finished I have to add one more bend and some sort of an adapter to mate to the exhaust.
here are a few pictures.






The pipe directly off the turbo is 2 1/4 inches to the flex coupler.
I made an adapter and bumped the pipe to 2 1/2 inches after the flex coupler.

[fspGTD]

Nice...    Clear the shift linkage allright?

[veeman]

Wow...Nice work!  Where did you find that flex coupler?  Looks like just the trick...

[Patrick]

A buddy of mine has that same welder I think. will also stick, AC/DC reversible polarity? What a monster! Great piece of equipment!