1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan

[arb]

That is awesome that he helped you out. I hope you figure out the CV eating problem. It wasn't at that bad of an angle to constantly be killing these is it?

Well, that's the intersting thing - that CV that kept popping is the one with the least angle - its less than 10 degress almost all the time. The wheel CV's are both moving through 90 degress and the other inside is about 30 - 40 degress at times.

So far the welding must have resolved this issue. Must have been a failing C-clip.

[arb]

Well, my final used CV joint popped shortly after I left for work this morning. Time for a "new" CV joint....

[lovinthedeez]

hi arb, glad to see that the popo helped you out.  (it's actually their job ).  sorry to say though that I don't have any cam baffles.  is the oil coming out the breather hole on top of the valve cover?

[arb]

hi arb, glad to see that the popo helped you out.  (it's actually their job ).  sorry to say though that I don't have any cam baffles.  is the oil coming out the breather hole on top of the valve cover?

Yes, its a very fine mist coming with the blow-by gasses. I'll probably weld up an external aluminum oil separator this weekend.

[arb]

Yes, that is what I am doing. I am going to use my dial indicator to true them in the car rather than v-blocks. I'm not looking for speed beyond 75 mph.

I like inner CV joints on the VW better than the Chrysler version, mainly due to the way they bolt to the trans rather than slipping into the transaxel. The Chrysler wheel bearing assembly is designed for higher loads, though.

While the idea of splicing the axles is cool, there is an easier solution. The first iteration of the Dodge Omni / Plymouth Horizon had a 1.7L VW engine. This was mated to a 4-speed VW (Chrysler code A412) transaxle. The axles used were VW bolt-into-the-trans on one end, and Chrysler splined stubs on the other. These allowed the VW transaxle to work with the standard Chrysler hubs. These hubs are the same as whats on the first generation Caravan.

According to the Advance Auto web site, the 1.7L engine was an option on the Omni from 1979-1983, the axles are described as such:

Part number: 603004 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Left; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603004.jpg

Part number: 603005 "CV Half-Shaft Assembly: Remanufactured; Front; Right; With Manual Transmission (Vw-A412) Transmission; Chrysler Corporation "Sales Codes" Are Found On The "Body Code" Plate."

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/a1c/603005.jpg

Granted, these are $75.00 each, but they are new and shiney! Hope this helps someone. BTW, awesome project!

Well, I had the mis-forture of playing 'Freeway bumper cars" on I-696 with a woman in a Grand Marquee last week. She decided to merge into my lane and did the bump and grind without stopping. The state police took notice that she failed to stop. Looks like Michigan "no fault" insurance will get me $500 for her transgressions. Good thing I was quick to get her plate # and the guys behind me ;-)

The very next day after the MSP looked at my car, the final used CV I had installed, this time with TIG help rather than C-clip, took a poop on my way to work. So Friday I ordered the reman half-shaft. It came today, but they did not order the 60-3005 like I wanted. The bad news is, today it came in and was the wrong part. Good news is I didn't pay for it, so they will return it. Bad news is they can't get the 60-3005 as it is too rare. Good news is, AutoZone says they can get it. Bad news is, $95 including core and tax. Good news is I'll have a shiny newish one with new bearings and boots in a few days :-)

[arb]

Well,, the 60-3005 half-shaft Autozone got me with a life time warranty was not exactly what I need. The flange that bolts to the trans has 3 of the 6 bolts on a different spacing.  might mark the flange on the trans and drill the 3 odd holes in it so I can use nuts & bolts. I don't think 3 bolts of this size will take the torq we have, understanding the torq is supposed to be transmitted by the friction of the 2 plates bolted together. Here is the new shaft and what my bolt pattern looks like:  ( Ideas anyone ?



Nice thing other than warranty, is the cover to keep stuff out of the joint.

[Rabbit on Roids]

those omni axles?

[theman53]

can you swap out the old piece on the new end?
If not I think your idea of drilling works. Use the old for the template and you should be good to go. On a side note. Those stupid triple square bolts weren't made hard enough at the head and I think when I put my jetta back together I am going to use the 12.9 SHCS

[arb]

can you swap out the old piece on the new end?
If not I think your idea of drilling works. Use the old for the template and you should be good to go. On a side note. Those stupid triple square bolts weren't made hard enough at the head and I think when I put my jetta back together I am going to use the 12.9 SHCS

Yes, its for an Omni.  Yes, the triple square are not what I will use for 2 reasons - Yes they are not strong enough, and they are way too long for this thin flange. There was a note in the box that it is an after market part so it looks different than OEM but will do the same job. Hummm. At least I have a new part rather than reman. And they will likely loose money on life time warranty.

I can't drill this new CV flange as it is too thick at the spot where the triple square bolt would go, so I'll have to drill the flange that is on the trans. It will be on the car and I'll be laying on my back in the snow, but its 40 degrees today so I'll not complain.

[Rabbit on Roids]

get some omni flanges?

[arb]

get some omni flanges?

Do you think the Omni trans is fully VW other than the bolt pattern on the flange ? I have not seen and Omni here in a very very long time. Not even in a bone yard.

[arb]

Started to replace the shaft last night... it is quite a bit shorter than what I had:


But at least the wheel side is the same:


So I decided to cut the shaft and add an internal tube / shaft.


I looked all over my shop for a chunk of steel 1 5/16" O.D. but could not find one...

[arb]

Well, I was pressed for time last week and only used 3 grade 8 bolts as the other 3 bolt holes I drilled in the trans flange did not align with the CV end. Because it had been sitting in michigan's humid air, the brakes were a bit rusted and when I tried to drive to work, they failed and it growned and shuttered. Tomorrow I see what broke.

[arb]

My lovely diesel is my daily driver again !!  Here's what happened. The new right half-shaft inner CV joint popped out of the cup and twisted the boot ripping it. It has a very different design from the VW shafts (this was the suggested 60-3005 shaft used on specific Dodge Omni (1.7L manual w/o spring loaded ends))



Here is the design - it uses 3 ball bearing wheels in a cup. That's why the bolts are a different pattern.


Turns out, the failure was completely my fault. Not understanding how the new design was made, I felt the travel was longer than it really was and made the shaft more than 2" too long, allowing the joint to come out of the bucket the first time torque was applied. Rusty brakes didn't help either. So I cut the old weld and installed the shaft, this time compressing the suspension on that side and marking the shaft with only about 3/8" before bottoming out. I also found out how hard the steel is in the flange - my drill bits could not opening the new holes I drilled w/o dulling. So I got a grinding bit for my Dremal tool and got the 3 new grade 8 bolts in, in addition to new shorter cap screws to replace the now too long triple square bolts.



While I was at it, I installed my new oil separator - My oil drips on the parking lot should now go away.

[truckinwagen]

those are a really common(especially with newer cars) inner joint.
I am not sure if they are superior to a CV or not, but they dont seem to like high angles like a CV joint does...

my neon uses that style joint, and they are for sure easier to service(but when they fail they really fail!) although there is little warning before they go boom(no clicking for a while to tell you something is wrong like a CV will)

glad to see you figured it out, and hopefully you will be back on the road for a long time before you break down again.

-Owen