1.6L TD in a Dodge Caravan

[arb]

That belt tracking is way off.  There's no way I'd run like that.  The belt will get chewed up on the lip of the tensioner and the intermediate shaft pulley, if it has a lip, or the crank pulley if not.  Adjusting the tracking is as "simple" as loosening the timing pump bracket bolts (plate on pulley side of engine and mounting bolts of the angled part that bolts to the side of the block) and moving the back of the pump up and the pulley side down.

The head o-ring is easy to change on or off the car, but the proper procedure MUST be followed or the pump can be trashed.

Thanks Andrew, so the IP mounting plate stays were it is on the engine block, but I am loosening the 3 bolts on the IP that hold it to the plate and the bolt on the opposite side of the IP to move the back up and pulley side down ?

I'll search the FAQ for the procedure to replace the o-ring. Its strange the belt tracking moved so much with this last over-heat...

[arb]

Nope.  The bolts that hold the pump to the bracket don't affect the tracking.  The bolts to be concerned with are the ones that mount the bracket to the engine block and the two parts of the bracket together.

I thought the IP mounting bracket was one piece and mounted on the side of the block at 90 digress to the crank / cam. Its also the engine mount. So, I loosen the bolts that hold this bracket to the block and move the IP from one side to the other ? Do I use shims to keep the new angle ?

[arb]

OK, I think I follow. The result will be to introduce (or remove) twist in the IP mounting plate that is attached to the block / IP & engine mount. That would track the belt back towards the IP - right ?  How much am I looking to move it? I thought about what changed - my first thought was the IP pulley is at a new angle because the IP shaft is no longer parallel to the crank / cam due to bearing failure in the IP.  My second thought was the shaving of the head to remove the warp has tilted the cam pulley slightly down. If its only the second, them I can see adjusting the twist of the IP mounting would bring it back true.

[arb]

 Move the plate down relative to the block (jack under the block if it is your mount also).  Move the second part up in relation to the block and mounting plate.  No need for any shims.    

This seems to me that it would move the belt even further away from the pump... Shouldn't it be the other way ?

[arb]

It may seem counter intuitive, but I have adjusted several pumps and the pulley down and the back of the pump up has always been the fastest path to moving the belt tracking further onto the pump sprocket.  By all means, try both directions and report back.

Andrew

THANKS Andrew !! I see the cradle and its mounts to the block. That's the only mount on an AAZ for the IP ? I've never worked on an AAZ.

[arb]

Out of necessity I have been driving the diesel caravan for almost 2 weeks with the IP dripping and the belt alignment a bit off. The belt seems to be happy in its 4mm off location, but I'll still replace it with a new one when I swap the pump. I have 2 spare pumps just like the one I have on the engine, supposed to be good but I have not opened them, and I have this one w/o enrichment boost.

Last week I ordered a reseal kit for my pump, with Vitron seals. it came with both 17mm and 20mm shaft seals, so I'll have an extra. I've never heard of this brand. Hopefully they are OK.


Off to the FAQ pages for what I do next.

Any suggestions on which of the 2 pump styles I should reseal would be nice.

[arb]

I found it google searching - pointed me to ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170372262132

I searched the web and the John Deere tractor guys seem to think this is an Itanian company. I'm not conviced.

[ktzdsl]

Info on Spaco
R.A.S.E.D. S.P.A. is a Company founded in 1961 and is based in Milano Italy.
It is specialised in the manufacture of COMPONENTS FOR ALL TYPES OF DIESEL FUEL INJECTION PUMPS.

The brand name of the company's products is "SPACO DIESEL" (a registered Trade Mark) and the products cover an extremely vast range of SPAREPARTS from Gasket and Service Kits which comprise the appropriate gaskets and sealing components to overhaul the pump, to Nozzles, Elements, Solenoid Valves, Metering Valves , Liners, Diaphragms, Lever Springs etc. for almost all types of Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps

[arb]

Info on Spaco
R.A.S.E.D. S.P.A. is a Company founded in 1961 and is based in Milano Italy.
It is specialised in the manufacture of COMPONENTS FOR ALL TYPES OF DIESEL FUEL INJECTION PUMPS.

The brand name of the company's products is "SPACO DIESEL" (a registered Trade Mark) and the products cover an extremely vast range of SPAREPARTS from Gasket and Service Kits which comprise the appropriate gaskets and sealing components to overhaul the pump, to Nozzles, Elements, Solenoid Valves, Metering Valves , Liners, Diaphragms, Lever Springs etc. for almost all types of Diesel Fuel Injection Pumps

WOW !! If they are anything like VM Motori in Italia, then I will be very satisfied with the results. ( VM makes small diesels for may OEM car and accessory makers. The CRD for the Jeep Liberty was theirs, so was the diesel in the Chrysler Town & country , PT Cruiser - for the rest of the world. They were owned by Detroit Diesel, but Roger Penske bought them back and sold half to GM for their new Caddie for the rest of the world. Now Brian Nessbitt (guy who designed the PT cruiser) is head of this GM division and has not made up his mind on Diesel.... PEOPLE, write him a letter - we need more diesel's here.  http://www.autoobserver.com/2009/08/new-cadillac-gm-pondering-the-diesel-equation.html

Brian Nessbitt
GM
6600 E 12 Mile Rd
Warren, MI 48092-3975

PS - sorry about my diesel activism :-)

[arb]

OK, the slow drip from my P has become a rapid drip. Good thing  got the reseat kit. i was going to do a proper full tear down and rebuilt of one of the 4 IP I have, but yesterday was filled with stuff for my son and wife... priorities. I started to do just the O ring between the iron pump head, following Andrew's and others posts:
http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5311&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20376.0
And this post about doing on the bench...
http://crustycrank.com/resealinjpump.htm#injpump

But why pull the pump and retime it if I don't need to. The only question I have for Andrew's procedure, how long does the 8mm 1.0 bolt need to be to hold things together while separating the 2 housings ? The longest I could find in town (Detroit is not much of a motor city these days) was 30mm long threads. That's only about 9mm longer than the timing plug.

Help !

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Arb, though I did buy 2 longer bolts, I found the 4 stock bolts are long enough to not grenade the pump if you back them out just enough to expose the o-ring and no more.

[macka]

Geez ARB, you don't know anyone in Detroit light(windsor ON)?Just pop over the border via the tunnel, go down Oullette ave until you hit Erie(just before the hospital), hang a left, go 6 short blocks to howard, hang a right, go down 2 blocks to ottawa hang a left, and look on your left for the car parts store (Autozone IIRC) ask any of the guys there for what you need. They have fasteners up the wazoo for import cars and all the metric goodies you could ever want.

[arb]

Things did not go well last night. The IP on my car has different fasteners than the 4 IP sitting on my bench. They have smaller caps, and none of them are a flat blade screw driver head.

All 4 of my spares have larger caps, plus the 2 flat heads.

All went well removing the first 2, then they all refused to cooperate. I used an easy out on 2 of them.

and got the bracket off

But the last 2 would not budge. I tried heat and vice grips... no luck. The afternoon I'll try removing the nozzle next to the bolt in hopes I can get a really good bit with the vise grips.

[macka]

Sears has the external easy out for the outside of bolts. I bought the complete set for another project.
http://milo.com/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-

these little beauties work better then easy outs for soem situations. The trick is keeping constant pressure on them. Also have you tried putting a little atf around the bolts to break the rust out of the threads?

[arb]

Sears has the external easy out for the outside of bolts. I bought the complete set for another project.
http://milo.com/craftsman-bolt-out-5-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-

these little beauties work better then easy outs for soem situations. The trick is keeping constant pressure on them. Also have you tried putting a little atf around the bolts to break the rust out of the threads?

since these are cap screws (allen head bolts) how do I get these to grip? They look like they are for hex-head bolts.  I tried loads of WD-40. That's why its wet. Maybe it will have soaked in since yesterday :-)