I am rebuilding a 1.6L motor, suggest parts please

[voodoo]

I have two blocks one brazilian with 300k miles and a german block with 250k miles.  

I have two 1982 heads and one 1985 head all solid lifter
one mexican  one brazilian one german.

the brazillian head looks like the crack between the valves goes all the way to water.

anyone have expierence with GEX heads?

can anyone suggest a place  to buy a head prebuilt?

someone please suggest a place on th net to buy affordable replacement parts

I will be buying new valves, who makes the best exhaust valves, osvat or trw or manley?

I want stronger valve springs to avoid valve float, would any springs from a gasoline solid lifter head motor be stronger?  do hydraulic and mechanical heads have the same springs?  suggest springs to use with solid lifter head for 5000rpm redline.  I dont plan to go to 5000 but several of the pistons have valve marks.

should I go straight to 1mm oversize pistons?

will cutting the block for 1mm oversize pistons make the cylinder wall too thin?

will a 36mm oil pump fit in a rabbit oil pan?  I can cut and weld if a 36mm wont fit.

brand of oil pump that is better, schaedec or other?

best bearings to get mahle or clevite or other?

I plan to use 12mm grade 12.8 hardware store bolts for the head and mains? the grade 10.? stretch bolts are illogical and not as strong, American cars used grade 8, grade 12.8 metric equivalent for the heads and mains I dont understand.

I dont have $300 for raceware or arp

 I dont plan to use a turbo



I

[Turbinepowered]

Skip the hardware store bolts for head bolts and mains, buy the stock parts.

[rustybones49801]

Do NOT use store bolts. They are stretch for a reason. I have used this parts house in Jacksonville for a lot of OEM stuff, with great results. http://www.easternimports.com/home The head bolt set is very reasonable that they carry.

[FWD.MOTION]

head studs....aftermarket   rod caps studs!!?  racewear.com or ARP's cheeper

everything else original equiptment manufacter

[myke_w]

the brazillian head looks like the crack between the valves goes all the way to water.

If in question always have heads  pressure tested.

anyone have expierence with GEX heads?

GEX is a mass re builder, if thier diesel product is anything like their air cooled, it's junk

can anyone suggest a place  to buy a head prebuilt?

I could have a known good head rebuilt for you, if you send me a good one as a core. I also have them peen the prechambers for added insurance.

someone please suggest a place on th net to buy affordable replacement parts

you've got pm, I can supply you with stuff if needed.

I will be buying new valves, who makes the best exhaust valves, osvat or trw or manley?

I like TRW, they're OE supplier

I want stronger valve springs to avoid valve float, would any springs from a gasoline solid lifter head motor be stronger?  do hydraulic and mechanical heads have the same springs?  suggest springs to use with solid lifter head for 5000rpm redline.  I dont plan to go to 5000 but several of the pistons have valve marks.

Stock springs are good for at least 5000 rpm, the marke you see on the pistons are likely from prior timing belt breakage and interference.

should I go straight to 1mm oversize pistons?

You should go as little as you have to, displacement won't earn you noticeable gains.

will cutting the block for 1mm oversize pistons make the cylinder wall too thin?

No, it would be fine, I do that on a regular basis

will a 36mm oil pump fit in a rabbit oil pan?  I can cut and weld if a 36mm wont fit.

Yes it will

brand of oil pump that is better, schaedec or other?

Schadec is Brazilian, they seem crappy to me. I use and sell the meyle one in all my motors with no issues.

best bearings to get mahle or clevite or other?

Glyco with separate thrust washers for the mains, Kolbenschmidt or Mahle for the rods.

I plan to use 12mm grade 12.8 hardware store bolts for the head and mains? the grade 10.? stretch bolts are illogical and not as strong, American cars used grade 8, grade 12.8 metric equivalent for the heads and mains I don't understand.

American cars aren't making 18:1 compression, stretch bolts are required unless you go with a  ford cosworth 2.0 head stud from summit or some other place, mains are reusable and pointless to replace unless you think you are going to make a hell of a lot of horsepower.

I dont have $300 for raceware or arp

ARP head bolts are like 120 bucks from summit

I dont plan to use a turbo

You really don't need to upgrade anything if you don't plan to turbo the motor, just run it stock and enjoy your mileage.



I

[voodoo]

thank you myke_w good suggestions, also thanks to everyone else, buying new stretch bolt set, its a no turbo motor, no worries.

this message board with the info on the differences in main bearings is extremely useful.  glyco multi part mains for sure

grocery list so far

the important parts:

meyle or febi 36mm pump
many piece glyco mains with separate thrust bearing
trw valves
set of new stretch head bolts
febi rod bolts
mahle 1mm OS pistons
new valve keepers
new timing belt
10,000 other new parts not on the list but included

part I cant find

valve spring retainers!

new OEM steel valve spring retainers don't exist anywhere.  all my parts have 300,000 miles I want new retainers to go with the new valves and new locks/keepers.  if the keepers pull through the old retainers and drop a valve that would be bad.  I cant find any to buy, except aluminum and titanium for $500 a set.

anyone with experience with the melling $55 36mm oil pump?

choices in valves are TRW valves from Brazil or Osvat from Italy or Romania. is there another choice?

http://www.osvat.com/

if there is a very important other part I did not mention tell me please

[voodoo]

thank you myke_w good suggestions, also thanks to everyone else, buying new stretch bolt set, its a no turbo motor, no worries.

this message board with the info on the differences in main bearings is extremely useful.  glyco multi part mains for sure

grocery list so far

the important parts:

meyle or febi 36mm pump
many piece glyco mains with separate thrust bearing
trw valves
1.9L metal head gasket
set of new stretch head bolts
febi rod bolts
mahle 1mm OS pistons
new valve keepers
new timing belt
10,000 other new parts not on the list but included

part I cant find

valve spring retainers!

new OEM steel valve spring retainers don't exist anywhere.  all my parts have 300,000 miles I want new retainers to go with the new valves and new locks/keepers.  if the keepers pull through the old retainers and drop a valve that would be bad.  I cant find any to buy, except aluminum and titanium for $500 a set.

anyone with experience with the melling $55 36mm oil pump?

choices in valves are TRW valves from Brazil or Osvat from Italy or Romania. is there another choice?

http://www.osvat.com/

if there is a very important other part I did not mention tell me please

[Smokey Eddy]

my local vw import specialty shop can order ARP studs for 160$ (shipping included - to canada)
i dunno if the 140 makes a difference but did you shop around for prices on arp orders?

[gigaz2]

part I cant find

valve spring retainers!

new OEM steel valve spring retainers don't exist anywhere.  all my parts have 300,000 miles I want new retainers to go with the new valves and new locks/keepers.  if the keepers pull through the old retainers and drop a valve that would be bad.  I cant find any to buy, except aluminum and titanium for $500 a set.

have you tried on the dealer?  :roll:

049 109 641A about 4€ each, they are the same for the gasser engines, so they can whit stand a lot more stress.

[voodoo]

049 109 641A

ok thank you gigaz2

 the motor has a redline of 3700 rpm, the  factory diesel springs are unlikely to pull the keepers through the retainers, but I have paranoia like no other.  I found the oem 049 109 641A retainers for $2.50

LIFE AND DEATH IMPORTANT!!!
the single biggest thing I got out of my searching is that using the glyco separate thrust bearing main bearing set  is absolutely mandatory or the crankshaft will nearly instantly be destroyed  by the other inferior design used by all other companies. the glyco design has alot more surface area and distributes the pressure from the clutch better.

second important is the 1.9 metal head gasket that seals the prechambers

I found replacement valve springs crane 99879-8, but I really doubt this tractor engine needs them, I listed them anyway.


also found is a melling oil pump # m244 for sohc VW  I dont know what country it came from but it is about $55 everywhere.  I still plan to get a meyle.

I have this amazing ability to stare at part lists and catalogs until my eyes bleed, sometimes I find things that are useful.

reading for the bored and insomniac


I found crane valve springs for vw 99879-8 dual crane spring

Part Number: 99879-8   AKA      99879
Outer Diameter   1.218
Inner Diameter 1   0.906
Inner Diameter 2   0.680
Damper   NO
Seat Pressure @ Installed Height   91 lbs @ 1.300
Open Pressure and Height   220 lbs @ .900
Coil Bind   0.783
Maximum Net Lift w/.060" Clearance   0.457
Average Spring Rate   337 lbs/in

od 1.218     id 1  .906     id 2  .680     85# @ 1.312     240# @ .852     99879-8     

$46  @  amazon.com



then I found

http://www.iskycams.com/

SILICON INNER VALVE SPRINGS (FOR USE WITH STOCK
OUTER VALVE SPRING & RETAINER)

SP-116 8 SILICON INNER VALVE SPRINGS

recommended for use with mild performance cam $28 plus shipping

also found



 Details For:M244

Qualifier: VOLKSWAGEN

Description: Oil Pump
Manufacturer: MELLING
Additional Description: Years:1993-1995; Per Car Qty:1;

List Price:
Your Price: $ 53.62


price comparison gives price tag 1/10th the size for the same part for a chevy

Small Block Chevy Melling 305 350 400 Oil Pump M55 SBC
SKU: MEL M55

Our price: $16.50

I think I got everything, if I missed anything, nobody spoke up so I am now going to burn out my credit card and commit.