converting a 1991 Jetta GLI to a 1.6 TD?????

[Dakotakid]

If you are going to run air conditioning with the diesel engine, you will need a different radiator and hose set-up. And your IN line on the air conditioner will have to be different, I believe.
Plus, you will need the respective brackets as well.
I don't know if your GLI has a hydraulic front motor mount (my GTI does not), but I prefer the floater mount to the standard caged rubber one. You get less of a drone in the cab.
I highly suggest you find a non or poorly running or rusted donor car to look over before you scavenge it for much of the stuff you need.

[53 willys]

If you are going to run air conditioning with the diesel engine, you will need a different radiator and hose set-up. And your IN line on the air conditioner will have to be different, I believe.
Plus, you will need the respective brackets as well.
I don't know if your GLI has a hydraulic front motor mount (my GTI does not), but I prefer the floater mount to the standard caged rubber one. You get less of a drone in the cab.
I highly suggest you find a non or poorly running or rusted donor car to look over before you scavenge it for much of the stuff you need.

so what radiator do I need?? a VW one? or some aftermarket one?
I know summit racing has a ton of aluminum radiators in many sizes...I am sure I can find one to fit??
but if there is a VW one that fits better let me know!
yeah I will be making some trips to the pick and pull! hopefully I can find some stuff there.

Thanks

[vanagonturbo]

Whoa there cowboy! That chassis came from the factory with a TD.

You will need a CE2 cluster from a '90-91 eco-diesel. Thats plug and play.

The radiator you have should suffice. I may have missed something if you said you wanted AC.

I took the 16v out of my Scirocco and put a TD 1.6l in there. Works great!

I have had no problems running the factory in tank pump to supply fuel to the IDI pump.

Pay attention to the Moses pic. He knows what you need.

Wiring is VERY simple. Just need to wire in a glow plug relay and run the black (terminal 15) wire from the coil to the stop solenoid.

If you plan an M-TDI most of this is still applicable. Its just going to cost you a lot more. I would suggest selling your old engine and all of the stuff that goes with it to help compensate for the outgoing money you will need for an M-TDI.

The trans will bolt up fine, but I suggest selling that too. The ratios are going to be all wrong for a TD of any Ilk try getting a wide ratio tranny to go with it. If you plan on having gobs of torque, make sure you rebuild it with at least a bolt kit on the ring gear.

Engine mount will all bolt up. Make sure you use the hydraulic front mount. its kinda spendy as opposed to the other mount, but your GLI should have come with the hydraulic one in the first place.

You will need to modify the filler tube for the gas tank. Your GLI will have a restrictor in there to make sure idiots dont put Diesel (or what we used to have, REgular leaded) in the tank. That restrictor will need to be removed in order to fill up with a Diesel nozzle at the pump.

Like was said before. Eliminate that whole fuel box under the car that contains the fuel pump, fuel pressure accumulator and fuel filter. You wont be needing any of that. Sell it on Ebay. Many MKII owners need that pump for a VR6 swap.

Dont worry about a check engine light as the IDI does not have a computer. Get a dummy switch to replace it with. If you have the CEL in the little window that has the brake and fasten seatbelt light too, then just get one that has no CEL.

HTH

[53 willys]

Ooh man great post!!
I went ahead and ordered a Bentley service manual since it comes so highly recommended!!!
thanks for all the great info...
so YES I would like to have A/C working on this car! will the stock radiator work with the A/C or is that to much heat?
I dont want to spend the cash on the 1.9 conversion...it's gonna be a 1.6TD for sure...I already have the engine and a whole bunch of other parts lined up from my buddy "zukgod1"

I thought I read that the GLI trans was the best trans for the diesel swap?? what trans would be a better choice? years??

what about a source for the cluster??


great info guys!! thanks for all your help!

[53 willys]

I found a used CE2 cluster but i'm not sure if it's the right one??
take a look...is that price good or bad??
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3835051

[53 willys]

never mind that is NOT a diesel cluster....

[fatmobile]

Most radiators have the upper hose port pointing straight toward the engine,... the AC alternator setup won't allow this.
 For AC; the radiator will have an upper port aiming more toward the passenger side,.. and a long curvey hose, with a small line coming off it heading toward the resevoir.
 Can be a spendy hose.

[zukgod1]

He is going to need a larger radiator in this climate.

Its been in the 100's here for days and running the A/C is going to compound that problem.

Then I'll bet we end up with a FMIC on there and that will restrict the air flow to the bottom of the rad as well.

[Ziptar]

So what would a guy need for a conversion like this??
seems like it would be really easy right?
I have been looking ALL over the place and can not find ANYBODY who has converted a gasser to a 1.6td..do you all have any links to a conversion like this?

You didn't look hard enough, try here.  

what about...
the motor mounts are the same?

Yes, they are. While you are at it, Think about some Hydraulic Mounts. I didn't do them on mine when I swapped but, I should have. They'll be in there eventually.

the TD's only need a 12v source to run?

Yes, One for the glow plugs, wire up a relay or a push button. The fuel cutoff solenoid needs to be hot when key is on, most use the Coil +12V Wire for it.

trannys are the same or atleast interchangeable??

Yes, 16V will be a close ratio transaxle but is probably a 2Y with a 3.67 final drive and 0.91 5th gear. It will bolt up to the engine, It will also have 100MM Axles, use those too. As far as the best transaxle, I love the ASF but, anything with a .75 5th gear and 3.67 Final would be ideal so, AON, ACN, ACL too. When rebuild time comes I'll probably have a .71 5th gear put in the ASF for even lower Highway RPMs. For transaxle codes, gear ratios, and RPM calculations go here

what about the gasser wiring harness vs the diesel??
can I just hack out what I dont need on the gas harness
what about check engine lights

Totally different. You can hack it up but, it's messy, there will be a ton of extra sensor, computer, and injection wiring. Compare the wiring schematics here. I swapped the entire harness when I did my swap, glad I did. I have a 98% complete and not totally hacked Jetta CE2 TD harness in a box in my storage unit, it has the fuse box, bracket, Non-Tach Cluster, etc. It is almost all there for the dash, been hacked a bit from an afetrmarket stereo install. If you want it I might maybe would sell it. :lol:

what about the diesel instrument cluster/ will I need to change my cluster?

Yes, Gas Clusters are different. You'll need a diesel one that corresponds to the wiring in the car, CE1 or CE2. I recommend burn_your_money for a nice TD tach cluster, contact him and see if he has any.

thanks for ANY help or info you guys or gals have
Mark

You are Welcome.

As for the A/C, you'll need a different radiator and hoses.
Radiator
Lower Radiator Hose
Upper Radiator Hose

[53 willys]

Wow great post!! great links...awesome! thanks buddy
Pm me a price on that harness would yah?
Great job on your conversion...you got me pumped up even more!
this is gonna be fun.
Thanks again

[zukgod1]

I'm going to recommend we stick with the solid rubber mounts over the hydro.

Hydro lets the engine move around to much, I switched from the hydro to solid rubber (G60 mounts) and it's MUCH better to drive now. The shifts are better just a better driving experience all together.

[Ziptar]

PM Sent.

zukgod1
I hadn't thought about movement with the hydraulic mounts, good point. If the shifter was a cable type maybe not such a big issue but, I can see how the engine shifting around could cause havoc with the linkage type shifter.

[zukgod1]

All that movment didnt really create
problems" pr sey but after I switched over to the solid rubber mounts I noticed it was much easier to shift/ drive in general.
Power felt like it was actually getting to the ground.
Engine felt smoother etc.

Ok I think I've made my point..   :lol:

[zukgod1]

I emailed you the info on the Totalseal rings 53 willys..

I'll be ordering a set here myself SOON.

We better take a look at this block ASAP to see what it's going to need. Maybe we can order 2 sets at the same time and save some shipping. Not like rings are going to cost allot to ship but hey..

[53 willys]

I emailed you the info on the Totalseal rings 53 willys..

I'll be ordering a set here myself SOON.

We better take a look at this block ASAP to see what it's going to need. Maybe we can order 2 sets at the same time and save some shipping. Not like rings are going to cost allot to ship but hey..

yeah man let do it...if we order from summit they charge like 10 bucks handling...but we might as well save where we can ...