Author Topic: Diesel Swap in Progress - couple of probs  (Read 1789 times)

July 22, 2008, 03:36:01 am

Brom

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Diesel Swap in Progress - couple of probs
« on: July 22, 2008, 03:36:01 am »
Hi All,
I'm new to the forum and after some advice as theres not a huge VW diesel knowledgebase here in Australia. Currently i'm towards the end of swapping my 1980 diesel golf engine into a 1990 cabriolet body i recently picked up. It's all gone reasonably smooth. Engine went in fine, I kept the cabby gearbox for now so the mechanics are done. Fuel wise i've left it stock cabby up to the engine bay apart from removing the main pump and reserviors. From the end of the metal lines i've just run new rubber lines around the front of the engine bay to the other wheelarch where the diesel filter is; allowing me easily add an inline heater for biofuels later on.

But now for the electrics! The starter, oil pressure switch, radiator etc was all easy as most just swapped over or went straight on and stop solenoid off the coil. But i'm lost on the thermostat wiring on the side of the engine block. Don't know which of the left over cabby wiring goes here?
Also i set up my glow plug replay in place of the fuel pump relay. I've put the GP line in myself and it's getting 12 volts at the connection on the first plug as is the stop solenoid. Yet i gave it a crank today after letting the plugs heat up for 30 seconds and couldn't get the engine to run. How do i know the GP's are working. It was fine last week before i started. Should you feel heat on them after 30 seconds of current if theyre still in the block?

I know i'm so close and want to be registered and on the road this week. Can anyone help?
1980 Diesel/1990 Cabriolet

Reply #1July 22, 2008, 05:43:03 am

the caveman

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Diesel Swap in Progress - couple of probs
« Reply #1 on: July 22, 2008, 05:43:03 am »
The easy way to see if the glow plugs are working is use a test light to check for 12 v at the GP buss line or wire. If you need to see if they are really working you would need to use an ammeter to see if they are pulling current. It may be not starting because of a lack of fuel in the lines. Did you touch anything between the IP and injectors? did you let fuel drain out and now there isn't any at the IP ? Open one of the injector lines as you crank the motor to let the pump purge the air out then tighten once the motor fires.
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