Author Topic: building an M-TDI pump (Read 32889 times)

jtanguay · « **Reply #30 on:** June 17, 2008, 11:59:18 pm »

Quote from: "oldskool rich"

ive asked about the part number, is the renault one not better as its 12mm?

Tintin had a post a while back where he busted a 12mm head from revving it too much. i think he said it only likes to rev to around 4k... i forget where the post is located though. he also had pics of the carnage :twisted:

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #31 on:** June 18, 2008, 06:32:28 am »

if you are in 4k+ sustained...then no, that won't be a good thing and I remember Martin's post... he'll probably chime in on it though.
but...I don't know of many people that stay up in that 4k range for a long time. I've pulled my 12mm out to 4500 without an issue. Again...didn't stay there longer than shifting.
I've got a good 12mm BOSCH head that I'd trade for an 11mm pump head if someone was interested. I don't need the same fueling on the b3mTDI as I do in the mk1. So, let me know if there is interest.

Joe

oldskool rich · « **Reply #32 on:** June 18, 2008, 06:42:15 am »

im confussed, i thort the bigger the pp the better, when i ran the quater in my idi i was loosing speed (time) by staying in the gears too long, if id shifted at 4500 i probly would hav got a much better time. but didnt realise that untill id had chance to think about it on the way home

how desperate are you for the 11pp i might swap in a few weeks

westyman · « **Reply #33 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:06:42 pm »

FWIW, the TDI 12mm head is slightly different than the Cummins 4BT head.

Karl

Quote from: "RabbitGTDguy"

12mm heads are readily available from several pump applications out there. Namely, Cummins pumps from the 4bt seems to be a popular source. Beware of new heads on the market...some are 12mm heads that you can get "new" for a really cheap price but take a look at how poruous the metal is on them, there camplates, plungers and you'll find they are chinese heads. There have been several failures and "leaks" that have occured thanks to them. Even busted plungers and camplates! Get a good...used or if you can find them..."new" Bosch head

Joe

Tintin · « **Reply #34 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:09:45 pm »

There are lots of cummins 12mm head, lots of part number.

Cummins are also TDI motor.

westyman · « **Reply #35 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:14:36 pm »

Correct. But in comparing the 12mm head from a 'VW' 2.8TDI and a new one of the same on my shelf, with all Cummins pumps I've done, the heads are different. The Cummins heads have a groove around the end of the plunger/piston. I've found the VW-style plunger hed with no groove work far better, so far.

Quote from: "Tintin"

There are lots of cummins 12mm head, lots of part number.

Cummins are also TDI motor.

Tintin · « **Reply #36 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:17:23 pm »

The grooved head it's from an old pump, the later model do not have the groove.

westyman · « **Reply #37 on:** June 19, 2008, 11:23:48 pm »

Ah ok. I haven't seen anything newer than about 0460 424 144. When was that style introduced?

Quote from: "Tintin"

The grooved head it's from an old pump, the later model do not have the groove.

RabbitGTDguy · « **Reply #38 on:** June 20, 2008, 07:00:21 am »

Quote from: "westyman"

FWIW, the TDI 12mm head is slightly different than the Cummins 4BT head.

Karl

Quote from: "RabbitGTDguy"

12mm heads are readily available from several pump applications out there. Namely, Cummins pumps from the 4bt seems to be a popular source. Beware of new heads on the market...some are 12mm heads that you can get "new" for a really cheap price but take a look at how poruous the metal is on them, there camplates, plungers and you'll find they are chinese heads. There have been several failures and "leaks" that have occured thanks to them. Even busted plungers and camplates! Get a good...used or if you can find them..."new" Bosch head

Joe

In that thread there Karl, I wasn't referring to any VW pump head directly. We won't even get into the complexities of the differences between plunger feet, etc. etc. I'm namely talking about the difference in quality between a BOSCH head and some other knock-off that exists on the market now.

Joe

oldskool rich · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:03:04 pm »

ok so i got a landrover 300tdi pump, virtualy everything fits, except the actual pump into the pump bracket, pump is too big, and not adjustable.

cud i machine a big enough hole so the pump fits and then use the pully off a 1Y n/a diesel to adjust the advance and retard? :roll:

(its an adjustable pully)

Tintin · « **Reply #40 on:** June 24, 2008, 10:08:15 am »

Yes, It's the same thing when fitting a ALH pump on an 1Z/AHU engine, you need to enlarge the hole in the bracket, if you have a later AAZ with adjustable pulley, you can take the measures on it and reproduce it on the 1Z/AHU bracket, that also need ALH hub and pulley (adjustable)

Or take all the stock in the rover pump and swap it in older AAZ pump, but.... It's not the best idea.

snakemaster · « **Reply #41 on:** June 24, 2008, 03:51:16 pm »

take out the 3 studs out of the pump and elngate the holes and put bolts in that will sort out your addvanc retard , was that the pump for £107 the bay , i thot you were broke :lol: have you tryed to see if the pump will fit strate
on the 1z and dose the pully line up, or the tdi pully fit , is the key in the pump used with the disqo pully ? be good to no for ref you no , good luck with the build

oldskool rich · « **Reply #42 on:** June 24, 2008, 09:33:03 pm »

it looked like its the same but now you mention it im not sure :oops:

i am skint, im having to sell and weigh in everything i own to build this car, its only half mine so only have to pay half

i found a pump on the bay for £50 not very well listed, its so similar to an aaz pump apart from a few subtle differences. will tell you how it goes.

need sum .260 nozzles first, having trouble sourcing them atm :cry:

think thats everything apart from the head then.
anyone know if its worth porting and polishing? or shud i just not bother?

snakemaster · « **Reply #43 on:** June 25, 2008, 06:00:24 pm »

i think the head flowes good up about 180 200 hp all i would do is give the inlet port a quck whiz over(ruff parts and lips) with a steel bur and 3 angle seat the inlet valves, exhaust give a wee port to the throt and a whiz over the rest of the port , i would 3 angle the exhaust valves to but leeve a biger seating lip cos its a exhaust valve , and i would not wast my time polishing any ports ,
and i would match the manafolds to the head , this is what i would do if it were me bro
you going to put 8 13 ally cats on the crado

and paint the side back wondows the same col as the car and say to the nobers that it is a van and dont need wheel arches :wink: :twisted:

oldskool rich · « **Reply #44 on:** June 25, 2008, 09:02:48 pm »

thanx ill giv it my best shot, never done head work b4 and im a bit scared im gona grind a hole though the head

lol no this cars gona be mint, more of a weekend car than a daily.
the plan is metalic grey, decked 80mm smoothed bumpers angle eyes black leather interior, 16" audi steels with hubcaps, just gona keep the VR stickers and ***, gona be stealthy and quiet pretty much OEM (a wolf in VR6 clothing) :lol: