Penzoil Syncromesh on the ground!!!

[Matteo]

Volks,

In the interest of seeing how my trans would react to some GM/Penzoil Syncromesh gear oil, I decided to change it today. Well only a quart drained out of the final drive. Blackish, a few miniscule specks of metal on the drain plug. However, only a quart came out. I am new to watercooled, diesel and this 1990 Jetta. I was looking through the reciepts from the previous owner and one garage noted that the trans was dry. When I bought the car, the previous owner said his wife was sick of oil on the garage floor. Now it is all clear to me. The final drive and trans holds just over two quarts. We put in two quarts and about 1 qt pour out on the driveway coming out from the bell housing, leading me to believe that the trans shaft seal was gone.
So my question is, and bear with me I don't know much about front wheel drive...
Do I separate the trans from the engine, disconnect the passenger side inner half shaft, disconnect drivers side strut and pull the trans out the drivers side to replace the trans shaft seal, or do I pull the engine.

Is there a decent procedure for this? I own the bentley manual, but defer to your expertise before I rip this thing apart. I have been traveling 120 mile/day for over a month with the trans at 1 quart. Did I cause damage?
It shifts good and does not make any whinning noises.

Can I continue to drive this for another week with 1 quart in there? I suspect the previous owner knew about this and had been driving it that way himself. I just need to get to next weekend so I can change the seal.

Any advise would be very welcome!!!

Matt

[Vincent Waldon]

The Bentley has the generally preferred procedure:

- support the engine with a frame
- unbolt drive shafts
- remove shift linkage, wiring, speedo etc
- remove tranny mount bolts
- unbolt tranny from engine, pivot slightly, and remove

Once on the ground the repairs are very straightforward.... www.brokevw.com is the definitive web resource for that tranny.  Good idea to do all the seals:  input shaft, pushrod bushing and seal, and both drive flanges.  Probably need a clutch while you're there ?!

In terms of running it a quart low... I'm surprised you still have a functioning clutch !  My suggestion would be to avoid 5th gear... it's very likely starved for oil and the first gear to overheat when starved.

[Matteo]

Umm,

I think I messed up. Had my nephew pour in the gear oil. Might have poured it into the bell housing directly through the Timing window. I will double check when I get home tonight. If this is the case, looks as though I will be installing a new clutch regardless... and throw out bearing and seals...

Any decent source for these items? Is there a kit?

[rallydiesel]

Umm,

I think I messed up. Had my nephew pour in the gear oil. Might have poured it into the bell housing directly through the Timing window.

 :cry:

You need to pour it from the driver side using a funnel or through the speedo hole.

[jtanguay]

ouch  

[TedV]

not the first time I've heard that happen tho.

[burn_your_money]

www.brokevw.com

also, on a mk2 I find it best to remove the driver side axle from the car in order to free up some room for swapping the tranny. Also, use a scissor jack to push the engine towards the front of the car a bit, You may need to disconnect the rear PS motor mount as well.

In order to get the passanger side axle flange to clear the flywheel the tranny needs to be on an angle, as if the engine/tranny were being pushed forward where they meet to make a V

[Matteo]

What seals exactly do I need when I go in to change the clutch.
Input shaft, output shaft...
Pilot shaft.
Anything else?

[burn_your_money]

I do both axle flange shafts, the TO bearing and the starter bushing as well as the pushrod bushing. The clutch arm (the one with the "finger" on it) can also leak so you may as well do that one.

Input shaft seal is a good idea as well