Author Topic: My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!  (Read 45740 times)

Reply #45October 15, 2008, 04:58:03 pm

Smokey Eddy

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #45 on: October 15, 2008, 04:58:03 pm »
This is the best thread ever!
Ed
Blacked out mk2 AAZ Jetta RIP. You are missed.
White 1999.5 ALH Golf 2dr. Low & wide. Rammed off the road RIP.
Blue 2009 CR140 Jetta CBEA/CJAA. Malone stage 2. EGR/DPF/Exhaust-valve deletes. 2.5" open exhaust. ADP Turbo swap. 1-stage nitrous kit. THROWN ROD

Reply #46October 15, 2008, 06:16:56 pm

79rabbit4dr

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #46 on: October 15, 2008, 06:16:56 pm »
Man, one thing after another. Good thing you're pretty much a genius and have been able to do all the repairs yourself. Nice work, love the write-ups with pix. Very helpful!!!

Reply #47October 16, 2008, 08:14:55 am

riddleyo

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« Reply #47 on: October 16, 2008, 08:14:55 am »
Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"
This is the best thread ever!

Thanks!

Quote from: "79rabbit4dr"
Man, one thing after another. Good thing you're pretty much a genius and have been able to do all the repairs yourself. Nice work, love the write-ups with pix. Very helpful!!!

You're telling me! I just found two huge holes in the floorboards due to rust when I pulled the carpet up. It is one thing after another! I'm currently writing it up as I repair it, so pictures will be up in the next day or so.
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #48October 16, 2008, 11:35:00 am

lord_verminaard

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« Reply #48 on: October 16, 2008, 11:35:00 am »
I'll be using this post as a reference guide, as we just picked up an 86 Golf N/A for the Wife.  :)  It's almost exactly the same as yours, even white, though it's a 4-door.  This one supposedly has a rebuilt injection pump and new aftermarket head, but needs rings.  So between your top-end rebuild and my soon-coming bottom-end refresh, people will have everything they need right here. :)

Brendan
81 Scirocco 'S -->Soon to be m-TDI
93 Corrado SLC VR6
'86 Golf N/A Diesel  -->Wife's car
1990 Audi CQ
05 New Beetle PD TDI


"I am a man, I can change... if I have to.... I guess....."

-Red Green

Reply #49October 19, 2008, 03:03:17 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #49 on: October 19, 2008, 03:03:17 pm »
I had Smokey Eddy ask me a question on how to construct/use a valve spring compressor. Instead of just pm'ing him, I figured I would post here so everybody can benefit:

Hi there Smokey Eddy,
Looks like you have an interesting build going on yourself. Concerning the valve spring compressor, it is very simple in theory. The yellow things are clamps to hold the cylinder head down on the bench while I worked.



All I did was cut some rectangular steel and assembled it as I went. You don't need very precise dimensions, as long as it fits on the head. I used bolts and nuts to secure it to the head. I used a steel tube and a rectangular piece with a hole drilled out of the same radius of the tube. This allows the rectangular piece to rotate and push down the valve springs.

Basically, I push down on the top of the valves and use a magnet or needle nose pliers to take out the two valve keepers that hold the valve in place.

I am going to include some pictures that will explain it better than I can.

Here is a valve. It has three grooves at the top that 'valve keepers' fit into like a piece of a puzzle:


Here are the 'valve keepers'. They have 3 ridges that fit into the valve. The purpose of these valve keepers is to attach the valve to the valve retainer. The valve retainer attaches to the valve springs. Otherwise, the valves would just drop out of the head and the springs would be pressing against nothing:


Here is the cylinder head with the valve retainers on top of the valve springs, but I have no valve keepers in yet:


In order to put the valve keepers in, we have to use a valve spring compressor and drop the keepers in. This is also how you disassemble the head. Here I am pressing on the valve compressor and using my needle nose pliers to drop the valve keepers in. They will latch onto the ridges of the valve itself and keep the spring compressed. To remove them, simply use a magnet and they will be sucked right out


That is about it. It will be kind of hard to understand if you have never had a cylinder head in front of you and just examined it closely. So the best way is to take a good look at the cylinder head and just figure out how it works. Let me know if you need anything clarified.
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #50October 19, 2008, 04:36:00 pm

cyrus #1

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« Reply #50 on: October 19, 2008, 04:36:00 pm »
That is an awesome looking valve spring compressor riddle!  I built one just like in this link.  http://www.pureluckdesign.com/vw/vsc/  Yours definitely looks more user friendly though. :D

I would only change one thing about it.  I think it would be a good idea to use aluminium or brass for the parts that go inside the lifter bores.  I used tool steel for that part on mine because it's all I had access to.  The steel will mark the lifter bores if I'm not very careful when using it.
Cody

2002 Jetta TDI
2000 Jetta TDI - R.I.P.
1990 Jetta 8v-Eventually to be 1.6TD

Reply #51October 19, 2008, 04:37:40 pm

Smokey Eddy

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« Reply #51 on: October 19, 2008, 04:37:40 pm »
x2
Im trying to re-use my lifters so i may cover my compressor with something forgiving even a piece of cloth
Ed
Blacked out mk2 AAZ Jetta RIP. You are missed.
White 1999.5 ALH Golf 2dr. Low & wide. Rammed off the road RIP.
Blue 2009 CR140 Jetta CBEA/CJAA. Malone stage 2. EGR/DPF/Exhaust-valve deletes. 2.5" open exhaust. ADP Turbo swap. 1-stage nitrous kit. THROWN ROD

Reply #52October 19, 2008, 07:10:06 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #52 on: October 19, 2008, 07:10:06 pm »
Quote from: "cyrus #1"
That is an awesome looking valve spring compressor riddle!  I built one just like in this link.  http://www.pureluckdesign.com/vw/vsc/  Yours definitely looks more user friendly though. :D

I would only change one thing about it.  I think it would be a good idea to use aluminium or brass for the parts that go inside the lifter bores.  I used tool steel for that part on mine because it's all I had access to.  The steel will mark the lifter bores if I'm not very careful when using it.


Thanks! Your valve spring compressor looks nice and it very professional looking.

I forgot that I found that out the hard way. The steel part for my compressor has already put a scratch in a few of my lifter bores. I had to wetsand them out with fine sand paper.
Good idea, you are right. Anybody building one of these should use a softer metal for the part that contacts the valve retainer because it is very easy to scratch the aluminum bores.


Quote from: "lord_verminaard"
I'll be using this post as a reference guide, as we just picked up an 86 Golf N/A for the Wife.  :)  It's almost exactly the same as yours, even white, though it's a 4-door.  This one supposedly has a rebuilt injection pump and new aftermarket head, but needs rings.  So between your top-end rebuild and my soon-coming bottom-end refresh, people will have everything they need right here. :)

Brendan


Cool stuff, looking forward to seeing your build Brendan!
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #53October 19, 2008, 07:18:25 pm

burn_your_money

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« Reply #53 on: October 19, 2008, 07:18:25 pm »
I really like the simplicity of your valve spring compresser. It looks a lot easier to use then a press
Tyler

Reply #54October 19, 2008, 07:59:06 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #54 on: October 19, 2008, 07:59:06 pm »
For the past month or two, I have been stripping out the golf's interior, painting/dyeing everything black, and cleaning / repairing rust. I have also been adding sound deadening because the diesel engine is pretty noisy. I plan to have a nice stereo system in eventually and I want to hear it instead of the engine. I also replaced my heater core and cleaned out all the ventilation ducts which were full of mold. The cold/hot flap in the heater core compartment had holes in the foam so no matter what temperature setting it was on, it always blew blazing hot (sucks in the summer). This all is a lot of work and I'll write up the rust repair first.

To start off, I removed the entire interior.


Lots of rust:


I found two huge holes due to rust in both corners of the car. They were located where the rear seat meets the floor boards. They were located in the corners, so I would have to get fancy with my metal work to replicate all of the angles.


So I began with cardboard templates that I fit with trial and error. Then I transfered the cardboard template to some sheet metal:


I bent the metal to the correct shape:


Fitting the metal:


More metal:


More test fitting:


I recently bought a flux core welder. But I quickly found out that flux core welding is very difficult for this thin metal work. So I went with panel adhesive. This is newer adhesive technology that some car makers are now using for non-structural metal bonding. It is supposed to be stronger than a weld when the metal is prepared correctly. I wire-brushed off all the paint and wiped both surfaces down with acetone. Then I mixed this epoxy type stuff and put it on the metal using screws to secure the sheet metal while the panel adhesive does its work.


Here is the completed repair. This was taken after I spent a few days ripping up all the sticky tar sound deadening with a heat gun and a putty knife. There is also a dry-ice method but I didn't use that. After the putty knife, I wirebrushed all the metal and wiped it down with acetone. The repair is pretty messy and ugly looking but it should be pretty strong and protect any mice from crawling though the gaping hole that used to be there. Nobody will see it because it is going to be under new sound deadener and carpet. I will grind off the screws later.


Here is the other side being prepped for repair:


Repaired. Pretty yucky looking but it will do the job. I plan to use seam sealer to seal any tiny holes between the metal/glue.


This is what it looks like from under the car. I will grind off all the crap protruding in a bit.


After using a grinder, the repair looks pretty good!


This is where I stopped today. Tomorrow I will grind some more and start prepping the area for some rust protection. I am going to use 'Rust Bullet' to prevent any future rust and then seal everything up with seam sealer. Then I will start sound deadening the car.
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #55October 20, 2008, 09:01:08 am

riddleyo

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« Reply #55 on: October 20, 2008, 09:01:08 am »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
Friendly tip: appliances such as washers, driers, ranges and refrigerators are a great FREE source for high quality decent gauge sheet metal.  I especially keep my eyes open for stainless steel kitchen sinks.

Andrew


Good idea. I have thought about about driving around looking for junk appliances for scrap metal money, but I haven't thought about using it for thick sheet metal.
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #56October 20, 2008, 09:32:14 am

theman53

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #56 on: October 20, 2008, 09:32:14 am »
I work for a company that sells 3m and fasteners... please tell me what the upc code is on that 3M adhesive as I need to figure out how to get the seats out and fix some holes as well. This is a great thread. I like the valve spring compressor:D

Reply #57October 20, 2008, 02:35:07 pm

Possum79

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #57 on: October 20, 2008, 02:35:07 pm »
1979 VW Rabbit Diesel L
My car may be ugly but im addicted to it.

Reply #58October 21, 2008, 12:28:54 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #58 on: October 21, 2008, 12:28:54 pm »
Possum beat me to it. Anyway, from his link:

3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive
3M Id : 60-9800-3093-0
UPC : 0 00 51135 08115 0

3M 8116 Panel Bonding Adhesive
3M Id : 60-9801-0901-5
UPC : 0 00 51135 08116 7

The only difference that I saw between the two is that the 8116 product is formulated to meet GM and Chevy specifications. I don't think that really makes much of a difference. I used the 8115 product and it is pretty strong.
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #59October 21, 2008, 03:47:38 pm

Possum79

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« Reply #59 on: October 21, 2008, 03:47:38 pm »
From what I saw on one of the Trucks! tv show they said the only difference is the set time. I thought they said there was three different set times. They used one that set in 5 minutes on a jeep grand cherokee. It looked like it worked out awesome.
1979 VW Rabbit Diesel L
My car may be ugly but im addicted to it.

 

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