Author Topic: My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!  (Read 43265 times)

Reply #30June 18, 2008, 09:24:56 am

riddleyo

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #30 on: June 18, 2008, 09:24:56 am »
Quote from: "dieselwagen"
awesome job on this car riddleyo
G60 rocker cover looks nice
individual glow plug fuses sure looked pimped.

Thanks! I just finished painting the G60 cover. Pics are coming once it dries and is installed.

Quote from: "Possum79"
Once again I must say I like. It is really cool having it broken up in stages of how your going about things. Also your attention to detail is nice specially in the pictures. Helps a lot of people out.
Also love the gloves to protect the hands but the sandals to protect the feet.

Haha. I work with my hands not my feet! I've had a few things drop on my toes while working but no biggie.

Quote from: "gtiguy1994"
Thats it! Im going to rebuild my Jetta TD! Thank you for the inspiration!
Here is my 1st thread to introduce myself!
I will do a build thread as well.

Nice. Looking forward to seeing it. I want a turbo on my engine someday.
 :)
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #31June 29, 2008, 08:51:28 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #31 on: June 29, 2008, 08:51:28 pm »
I finished rebuilding my alternator, and my tach works perfectly now! My battery light has also gone away. I ordered 2 new bearings, and a new adjustable voltage regulator.

Here are the new parts compared to the old ones:


I wetsanded the slip bearing surface to get rid of all the oxidation:


Then I used a dremel with a wire wheel to clean every metal contact I could find:


I used a wire brush attachment on a drill to clean the casings. Then I wiped them down with denatured alcohol. I sprayed some self etching primer, then some high temp silver:


Packing the alternator bearings with some wheel bearing grease:


Installing the bridge rectifier into the case:


Installing the bearing and the cover into the case:


Putting it all back together. The four screws that hold the 2 case halves together have to be tightened a tiny bit at a time, and you have to keep jumping to a different screw. If you tighten one side too much, the bearings get cock-eyed and the whole assembly locks up. This part took a while:


I put di-electric grease on every single metal contact I could find in the alternator to prevent corrosion and make a good electrical contact:


Alternator installed:


If your tachometer is bouncing around or just dies, rebuilding the alternator solves this problem. I think a combination of a bad voltage regulator, and poor electrical contacts due to corrosion killed my tach. But after the rebuild, it works great. Next up is painting the valve cover and installing new locks and headlights...
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #32June 29, 2008, 11:17:02 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #32 on: June 29, 2008, 11:17:02 pm »
Now to painting the valve cover. I used a wire brush attachment on a drill to clean the valve cover then I used denatured alcohol to clean it. First I sprayed some self etching primer so the paint would stick to the aluminum, and then finished with high temp silver:


Done painting:


Injector lines painted as well:


At this point, my car has no door locks and no headlights so I had to fix these. I bought a lock set from prothe. The door locks are very poor quality but the ignition lock and hatch lock are ok. I can't really complain because it was only $27 shipped:


Drilling a hole in the ignition to get the lock cylinder out:


New lock in:


Prothe's door handles/locks were poor quality. I was pretty disappointed but they were pretty inexpensive and you get what you pay for. The rubber seals were too small and low grade so they didn't seal very well. I had to use super glue for the seal to stick to the door handle, and globs of RTV to seal them to the door so water wouldn't get in the lock area. The lock mechanism isn't the same dimension as the OEM ones so it sometimes is very hard to open the door. Also, I had to enlarge the screw opening with a dremel in the handle so the screw would fit.


I used lots of RTV to seal the door handle (I need to wash the car). The plastic insert also doesn't fit too well.


Now I can at least lock the doors and start the car with the same key. But I have no headlights. So I bought a badgeless dual round grill and some lights. I have a westy radiator support though. I don't want to spend $100 for a new radiator support, so I made my support work. First I took out the square headlight buckets to make room for the round headlights.


Drilling holes:


Used some long nuts and bolts to mount the lights (didn't get a picture of the mounted lights, but they just fit on the studs and I used more nuts to attach them)


All finished (the tub under the car is to catch all the oil that leaks):


Dual rounds:


At this point, I found that only the left headlight works. I tested the wiring and the right side doesn't get 12 volts like it should. So more wiring work is needed under the hood before I can drive the car at night.

I drove the car around, and there is still a very loud metallic whine (sounds like a super charger). It sounds like something in the engine because it increases with RPM. The sound only comes when the car is warmed up. Does anybody know what it could be? I will try uploading a video later...

So many problems... :evil:
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #33July 07, 2008, 07:50:41 pm

CoolAirVw

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« Reply #33 on: July 07, 2008, 07:50:41 pm »
Quote from: "riddleyo"
Drilling a hole in the ignition to get the lock cylinder out:


How did you locate the hole?  How about a measurement from the seam up to the hole and from the end back to the hole.  (X & Z coordinates)
85 Jetta Turbo Diesel
75 Porsche 914
93 GMC Truck
99 Caravan <--wifes gotta drive something :)

Reply #34July 08, 2008, 01:36:06 pm

Possum79

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #34 on: July 08, 2008, 01:36:06 pm »
I don't have a scanner so I used his picture and put what the Bentley says. Theres a flat where the part number is and you measure down  10mm from that. Measure 12mm in from the edge of the housing. Hope that helps.

1979 VW Rabbit Diesel L
My car may be ugly but im addicted to it.

Reply #35July 09, 2008, 09:16:54 am

riddleyo

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« Reply #35 on: July 09, 2008, 09:16:54 am »
Great pic Possum

Quote from: "CoolAirVw"

How did you locate the hole?  How about a measurement from the seam up to the hole and from the end back to the hole.  (X & Z coordinates)


I didn't measure at all. I put the new lock cylinder next to the old one and used a sharpie to draw approximately where the hole is. I could see where the spring is on the new lock cylinder and just eye-balled it.
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #36July 09, 2008, 09:59:13 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #36 on: July 09, 2008, 09:59:13 pm »
Fixed the headlights, they work now. But my car still has a high pitched whine so I started to inspect my intermediate pulley because it looked like the belt was rubbing on the ridges. I put the car on jack stands, removed the front motor mount, and used a jack and a board to lower the engine so I could get to the intermediate pulley:


I made this tool with some pipe, nuts, and bolts so I could hold the pulley in place while I loosened the bolt. It makes a good weapon to swing around when people walk up to the house and try to sell me magazines when I'm working:


The pulley had seized itself onto the intermediate shaft, so I had to get medieval on it with a big crowbar after my gear puller failed:


To make it even better, when I pulled my intermediate shaft out, there were a bunch of cracks and a chunk fell off as I set it down:


Another pic:


And it looks like I need to replace the intermediate shaft bearings:


So I'm in a bind :evil:. If anyone has an intermediate pulley, intermediate shaft, or intermediate bearings for sale, let me know. I really need to buy them so I can get this car on the road...
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #37July 09, 2008, 10:29:45 pm

theman53

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #37 on: July 09, 2008, 10:29:45 pm »
Myke_W is the man for new stuff on here such as your bearings...he might have or know someone or somewhere to get the intermediate shaft as well.

Reply #38July 09, 2008, 11:09:29 pm

Quantum TD

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« Reply #38 on: July 09, 2008, 11:09:29 pm »
That bearing doesn't look too terrible. You might just leave it alone. That split you see, is a factory 'latch' in the manufacture process, not a defect. So, if the surface looks good (smooth, no missing chunks), then I'd say leave it alone.

I just did this job on a Rabbit Truck (see my post on vwdieselparts.net: "a call for help from Andrew"). I'm working on a post about how to install just the outside intermediate shaft bearing without having to remove the block, separate it from the trans, OR drop the oil pan. It's pretty slick, and the tools can be made pretty cheaply.

So, if you feel you still need to replace the bearing, PM me and I'll give you the details, and some pics of the procedure.

Jeremy

Reply #39July 09, 2008, 11:12:21 pm

Quantum TD

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« Reply #39 on: July 09, 2008, 11:12:21 pm »
Also, a little trick to getting the pulley off the intermediate shaft when it's stuck (for future reference: too late for you now).

If you have an IP sprocket puller (like the REALLY nice one that Jack at VWDieselParts sells: $75 and worth every penny), then you can maneuver it onto the intermediate shaft and slowly work off the pulley. I've had to do it a couple of times, and his tool works great. The upside is that you don't damage the outer lips of the pulley.

Reply #40July 22, 2008, 04:24:30 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #40 on: July 22, 2008, 04:24:30 pm »
Since my diesel intermediate shaft is cracked, I bought a gasser intermediate shaft and pulled off the gear. I intended to use the gear from my diesel intermediate shaft on the gasser shaft.

Yesterday, while pulling the gears off, I found out the gear ends of the gasser and diesel shafts are different! The gasser gear is smaller that the diesel gear.

I took the shaft to a machine shop today and they are going to fit a sleeve to make my diesel gear fit. They are also going to lighten and balance the shaft for me on a lathe. I can't wait  :P
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #41July 22, 2008, 05:19:36 pm

rallydiesel

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« Reply #41 on: July 22, 2008, 05:19:36 pm »
Beautiful engine. Did you check bottom end wear before putting the cylinder head back on?
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #42July 22, 2008, 06:05:30 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #42 on: July 22, 2008, 06:05:30 pm »
Quote from: "rallydiesel"
Beautiful engine. Did you check bottom end wear before putting the cylinder head back on?


Thanks! I did a compression test after the cylinder head was put on and that is about it (I have the numbers written down somewhere, I'll post them as soon as I find them). I wish I did more though.

What are some good bottom end wear checks that you guys know of?
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #43August 29, 2008, 10:44:33 pm

riddleyo

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« Reply #43 on: August 29, 2008, 10:44:33 pm »
Since my intermediate shaft is broken, I had to buy a new intermediate shaft. I found one on ebay, but it is from  a gasser. I took off the gasser gear and tried to put on my diesel gear. The diesel gear is BIGGER than the gasser gear. So you can't just swap them out.  I had to take the shaft to a machine shop and he installed a sleeve on the gasser shaft so the diesel gear can slip on. It also has been lightened and balanced. Here I am taking the gear off with my cheapo gear puller from harbor freight:


Here is the diesel gear pulled off from the diesel shaft:


Here is the diesel gear pressed onto the gasser shaft:


I had the machine shop guy lighten and balance the shaft on a lathe. It turned out to be $45 for the gear sleeve, pressing the gear on, and turning down the shaft:


Now to install the new intermediate shaft. I started by replacing the seals on the intermediate flange:


Then, burn_your_money sent me an intermediate pulley without ridges. It is quiet dirty though!


I cleaned up the pulley with a wire brush and some denatured alcohol. Here it is all cleaned up compared to my old pulley:


Intermediate shaft installed, intermediate flanged tightened down, and the intermediate pulley torqued on:


I am FINALLY done with my timing belt issues! The car ran great. I don't notice a difference in power. So I wouldn't recommend everybody rushing to lighten their intermediate shaft. It spins at half the speed of your engine. But I did it because I had to take my intermediate shaft to the machine shop anyway. It looks good and there will be less vibrations / tiny amount of reciprocating weight freed up.

All is good until I went to step on the brakes the other day and the pedal HIT THE FLOOR  :evil:. So now I am in the process of replacing the master cylinder and cleaning up the engine bay. I'm also dyeing my carpet and my interior panels a new color. I am pretty much making the interior brand new :D :D :D . Pics to come soon...
1985 VW Golf Diesel 1.6L N/A
My Build Thread: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=14607.0

Reply #44August 30, 2008, 09:40:59 am

burn_your_money

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My 1985 Golf 1.6 N/A Build Thread - No 56k! Picture Time!
« Reply #44 on: August 30, 2008, 09:40:59 am »
Very happy to see that the piece is working for you :D
Tyler