Author Topic: '80 Rabbit 1.5 No Start/Hard Start. (Read 8708 times)

jackbombay · « **Reply #15 on:** June 15, 2008, 04:06:56 pm »

Quote from: "DieselKraut"

when I got home and pulled in the driveway it started to run away. I put in gear and let out on the clutch and brought the rpms down. But then it did it again.

The engine is most likely running on its own oil and at the least needs new rings and at the most should be fully rebuilt.

How much oil has it used in how many miles since you have been driving it?

DieselKraut · « **Reply #16 on:** June 15, 2008, 04:17:49 pm »

When I got the car I checked the oil. It was right at the top of the mark. I drove it 90 miles home and checked it again. Oil level didn't move a bit. I've probably drove the car a totle of 10 miles since I have had it. Needed pull started every time. If the rings were bad wouldn't it be smoking going down the road at 60mph? I have read about troubles w/ the 1.5 IP having problems. Where they start to rev the engine up like its running away. Is there any truth to this?

jackbombay · « **Reply #17 on:** June 15, 2008, 04:42:16 pm »

I don't know about any 1.5 IP specifics.

I would have guessed the oil consumption would have been way higher if it was running on its own oil. A compression test will tell a lot when you get the adapter.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #18 on:** June 17, 2008, 01:03:39 pm »

If you are able to turn the runaway engine off it is most likely your pump

zukgod1 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 17, 2008, 02:27:36 pm »

If your timing is off still and your injectors are not calibrated combined with the idle screw you turned in you could get a runaway.

Back out the max fuel and idle screws.

Have you ever timed by ear?

I don't recommend it to often, it sounds to me like you timing is to retarded thus the hard starting then you tuned the idle screw up to get it to idle and it reached a warm up point where it went past where the idle could drop down (screw turned in) so it kept racing.

I only say this because I kinda went though a similar situation.

I set my timing @ 1.02mm, all new pump (rebuilt) and new injectors and thought it was on. Hard starting SOB it was, I was able to drive it for about 3 weeks as it ran ok and idled fine once I turned the idle screw and max fuel screw up, I decided to check the timing again and it as at .35mm :shock:
So I reset it and check then re checked then started it then rechecked it again and it was off. what the heck was going on I thought.
Once again I set it but I set it to 1.07 this time instead of 1.02.
It sounded like metal to metal knocking it was so bad. Loosened the IP fired it up (made a reference mark on the IP and mount) and backed it off till it was a tad noisier than originally but WAY less than the 1.07 setting.
Locked everything down and went for a drive. Smoke was down ran smother and when cold it started right up now.

In my situation a different flywheel was to blame originally, my TDC mark was off and I wasn't aware of it. I switched to a new lightened flywheel and was checking the TDC marks when I discovered the problem.
Then as you know it only takes a tiny little amount of movement to make a huge difference where it ends up.

Hope that helps and doesn't confuse ya more.. I hate it when i go off like that..

DieselKraut · « **Reply #20 on:** June 17, 2008, 05:43:16 pm »

Ok heres' where I stand. As soon as I get my comp adapter I am goin to run a comp test. I was told I should have it by the end of the week. But I've heard that one before to. If my comp is good I'm pulling the IP and having it rebuilt. If comp is bad it looks like I'm pulling the engine and doing a overhaul. As far as the runaway I wondered if it was due to me turning up the idle screw.

zukgod1, Did your IP timing change due to your turning up to the idle and max fuel srew up?

jackbombay · « **Reply #21 on:** June 17, 2008, 07:23:59 pm »

Harbor freight sells complete compression testers for ~$30, it might be worth the money depending on which bits you have or don't have now.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #22 on:** June 17, 2008, 09:44:31 pm »

increasing the idle should not cause a run away. The max fuel will cause a run away if incorrectly adjusted though. Don't bother playing with the screws on the pump until you at least have it timed right.

DieselKraut · « **Reply #23 on:** June 21, 2008, 08:43:11 am »

Well I got my Compression Adapter. I remover my inj lines and nozzles. I noticed that there was fuel in the heat shields. I just thought it was from me cranking the engine but then I relized #1 was dry. No fuel at all. Kinda puzzled about that. I ran two test. First was dry then one wet. Outside temp was around 60F.

First Dry Sec Wet
1 190 1 260
2 260 2 280
3 200 3 220
4 75 ouch! 4 100 CRAP!

Looks like I get to look forward to a weekend drinkin beer and pulling a engine. So does anyone know any where to get a complete overhaul kit and a good price. I've looked at Parts Place, Inc. they have several options for kits.

burn_your_money · « **Reply #24 on:** June 21, 2008, 10:32:24 am »

Seems like your valves are kaput.

myke_w is the guy to talk to for rebuild parts

DieselKraut · « **Reply #25 on:** June 21, 2008, 10:13:31 pm »

i'm goin to pull my head tomorrow to see how bad my cylinders are. Does anyone know where I can find 1.5 over sized pistons and rings? I can find standards but no overs.

DieselKraut · « **Reply #26 on:** June 30, 2008, 01:16:12 am »

Well I finally was able to pull my head tonight. When I took off my air cleaner I found the air box full of oil. It was clean when I left on my last drive. I was surpised at how easy my head bolts came out. I did have one intake bolt head round on me. Things aren't as bad as I thought they might be. I was figuring on more carbin build up. The top of the pistons are pretty clean. The cracks are pertty small between the valves so thats one good thing. #4 piston looks like it had the intake valve very close or kissing it. Theres also something that looks like a crack on top of the piston. I guess I will find out tomorrow when I remove the pistons. I'll post pics of the pistons when I get them out.

DieselKraut · « **Reply #27 on:** June 30, 2008, 02:55:15 am »

Well I just got my head apart and found more trouble. My Cam, sadles and caps are scored. Great! Pics don't show it to well but there no where near smooth. Now what are my options? Is this normal? What would you guys do about this problem?

DieselKraut · « **Reply #28 on:** June 30, 2008, 06:33:44 pm »

I just got my lower end apart. All I have to say is wow! How on God's green earth that engine ran is beond me. Rings were toast! #1,2, and 4 had broken rings. The cyl walls are scored pretty good. #4 is worn pretty good. The top of the cyl is a lot thicker were the rings don't ride. #4 rod bearing is all down to brass and the crank journal is a bit rough. I also found a piece of metal in the oil pan. It feels like lead. Its flexable and soft. It looks like a spun bearing. I pulled #2 and 4 main bearing. They look fine. I'll post pics later today.

fastvicar · « **Reply #29 on:** July 01, 2008, 07:32:53 am »

I just went through this about 2 weeks ago. Keep at it. It is very satisfying to have it fire right up after the rebuild. And even more satisfying when your oil level stays a the 'full' line for weeks at a time.