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Author Topic: Pump resealing  (Read 17506 times)

April 03, 2008, 03:16:35 pm

saurkraut

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Pump resealing
« on: April 03, 2008, 03:16:35 pm »


'79 1.6TD RABBIT
'84 1.5TD RABBIT
'83 Diesel Westy
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo Quatro Wagon
92 Audi 100
'93 Eurovan
'82 Porsche 930

Reply #1April 07, 2008, 08:49:01 pm

Vanagoner

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Pump resealing
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2008, 08:49:01 pm »
Thanks, that is helpful.  Mine is leaking out of the top cover now.  Never had any biodiesel before the leak, just the switch to ULSD. Now I know the culprit (ULSD after sulfur D)
Sage
'82  Vanagon Westy, the mighty N/A

Reply #2May 04, 2008, 09:48:01 am

Hammy

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Pump resealing
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2008, 09:48:01 am »
I can't seem to open the reseal link. Any ideas?

 Thanks
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #3July 13, 2008, 09:49:54 pm

td rabbit

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Pump resealing
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2008, 09:49:54 pm »
I went to the link then hit  the [back to homepage] button then the "Fixing My MK1 VW Rabbit" link. It's in there.

Reply #4July 16, 2008, 08:00:24 pm

Hammy

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Pump resealing
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2008, 08:00:24 pm »
Thanks,  I found it. I think it was my dial up internet. It wasn't opening fast enough. I just got high speed out here on the farm, so things are better now, but I'm getting tired of climbing the pole all the time, for the phone and internet. LOL!
Hammy (Jason)
'96 Golf, 1.8 gas
'91 Golf, 1.6 TD
'98 GMC 1500 4x4, 5.7L (doing my best to save the oil companies, 85 liters takes me 600 km)
'78 Ford 3000 3cyl, 201 diesel, with loader

Reply #5January 02, 2009, 11:39:58 pm

fuslit

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Pump resealing
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2009, 11:39:58 pm »
'81 rabbit 4dr 1.6TD [project]
'98 jetta tdi [daily]

Reply #6September 11, 2012, 03:53:18 am

vako

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #6 on: September 11, 2012, 03:53:18 am »
the link does not work any more, could anyone post any helpful links of resealing the whole pump. i have a terrible lda vent leak, so need to reseal the pump as soon as possible ???

Reply #7September 11, 2012, 05:12:07 am

745 turbogreasel

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #7 on: September 11, 2012, 05:12:07 am »

Reply #8September 11, 2012, 07:03:45 am

vako

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #8 on: September 11, 2012, 07:03:45 am »
http://d24t.com/showthread.php?109-Repair-fuel-leaking-pin


thank you very much for your help  ;D i'll buy the kit as soon as possible and reseal the whole pump. before that  have closed lda vent, removed the diaphragm and connected lda pressure hose (coming from the manifold) to the return line :D hope it works for few weeks :D

Reply #9April 22, 2013, 02:34:55 pm

oldpoopie

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2013, 02:34:55 pm »
the link does not work any more, could anyone post any helpful links of resealing the whole pump. i have a terrible lda vent leak, so need to reseal the pump as soon as possible ???

Used the internet wayback website to view a snapshot of it... Photos are gone but saved text fwiw:


Resealing a Bosch VE Injection Pump

    In the summer of 2007 I finished repairing a basket case 1981 VW Rabbit diesel and put it on the road. Though I drive relatively little, it was not long before the new ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel induced the injection pump to begin leaking significantly at the joint between the body and the high pressure head. I realized the problem when I was working on the air conditioning system, running the engine in the barn (with the main door open of course!). Within a fairly short time a small puddle of fuel appeared on the floor, and with a small inspection mirror I could see fuel dripping off the bottom of the pump.

    A lot of searching on the net revealed that while it was common knowledge that a rebuild kit, Bosch DGK-126 or equivalent, was readily available to replace the seals, there was almost no information about how to do this. Bosch guards the details of what is in their pumps and how to work on them as if were a top secret. I garnered just enough information to be dangerous, and proceeded with my usual reckless disregard for the potential pitfalls. Thankfully, Lady Luck has a soft spot for optimistic fools such as me. The following is a brief photo essay of my rebuild procedure.

    OK, the first thing you do not want to do is retime the engine, so you need to ensure that the timing belt does not slip time when you remove the pump. I used some spring clamps to hold the belt onto the camshaft and pump pulleys, and used the pump timing lock pin to support the pulley once the pump was gone. Ease off the timing belt tension but don’t let it get slack. Remove the control cables, fuel lines, and injector lines. My rebuild kit (Spaco 03991) had spiffy little plastic caps to put over the outlet valves to keep them clean. I used bits of paper towel stuffed into the injector openings to keep dirt out.



    Scribe a mark between the pump body and the mount plate anywhere it is clearly visible, so that you can line the pump body back up later, as that sets the static timing. There are some official timing marks, but they are not easy to use. Loosen the pump shaft nut several turns but leave it in place. I used a small two-jaw puller in two of the large holes to remove the pulley. It works easier if you put a good bit of tension on the pulley then tap the puller center screw sharply in line with the shaft with a small ballpeen hammer. Remove the pump mounting bolts (two on the flange, one nut accessible through a hole in the pump pulley, and the one at the rear), finish removing the pulley nut, and pull out the pump. The pulley slumps a little on the lock pin, pulling slightly against the belt so that it does not become slack around the crankshaft sprocket and slip time.



    Use diesel fuel and a brush to clean the grease and grit off the outside of the pump. Do a good job. Aside from making it easier to handle, it minimizes the chance that you’ll get grit inside the pump as you handle it during the partial disassembly that follows. Clean off the output head area especially well and wipe it dry with a clean rag. Chances are you don’t have the special pump mounting fixture for holding it by the front flange, but it works tolerably well to carefully clamp it in a large vise between the two large body flats on the side. Just be careful not to pinch the coldstart arm. Remove the bolts that hold the rear support plate, and remove the plate. Clean and dry the area the plate covered. Two screws remain that hold the high pressure head to the body. Remove the fuel shutoff solenoid; a 15/16" wrench fits perfectly.

    The two remaining screws on my pump head had slotted heads. They clearly had not been touched in many years, and were totally beyond loosening with any normal screwdriver. The only way to prevent the driver from camming out and ripping up the screw slots was to brace the driver bit tightly with a pipe clamp.



    KEEP THE IRON PRESSURE HEAD POINTED UP (the more vertical the better). When the head is pulled outward it may be possible for internal pump parts to shift position and later cause fatal destruction, but gravity solves the issue if the pump is oriented head up. Loosen the screws maybe ¼" but do not remove them. Gently back the pressure head out of the pump body until you can see the seal through the gap, loosening the screws more as needed. I had to use a thin putty knife with the bevel toward the iron pressure head to start it out then follow with a wooden wedge. Once the seal is visible, turn the screws back in to remove any slack.



    Use a small hook pick to pull the seal out of its groove then cut it and remove it. Be very careful not to gouge the seal groove. Grease the new seal ring and gently stretch it around the top of the pressure head, then roll it down the head until it drops into the gap. With a small stick or other soft tool, nudge it into the seal groove where it is not held out by the two screws.



    Install two of the screws that held the rear mount plate into the opposite corners of the pressure head to hold the head in place. Remove the slotted screws to allow the seal to fully seat, but use a pick tool to hold the seal away from the threads as you remove each one. Once the seal is in place, reinstall the slotted screws. Tighten all four screws a little at a time in rotation so that the head is pushed evenly back into the pump body. Make them only mildly snug for now, enough to close the gap completely, but leave off the rear mount plate for now. Reinstall the shutoff solenoid.

    The next part, replacing the coldstart seals, I have no photos for but it is straightforward. Push out the e-clip and pull off the coldstart arm. Remove the two cover screws and remove the cover with the coldstart stub shaft. Replace the O-ring under the cover. Push the stub shaft out of the cover, replace and lightly grease the shaft O-ring, and push the shaft back into the cover. Reassemble the cover as before, install the coldstart arm in the "off" position but don’t reinstall the e-clip yet. Move the arm toward "on" until you feel a little resistance. At resistance, the arm ought to be no more than ¼ through its swing. You may need to remove and reposition it. Keep swinging the arm toward "on". The resistance should peak and snap over just as the arm nears the end of its stroke. If it never snaps over, release the arm, remove it and reposition one notch clockwise (off) and try again. If it snaps over too early, say only 2/3 through, release it and reposition one notch counterclockwise (on). Once it snaps over properly (you can move the stop bracket a little to move the stop near the snap point), reinstall the e-clip.

    The backside coldstart seal presents no trouble at all, but when you remove the cover be careful to observe that there is a spring and a few thin washers (shims) that need to go back as they were originally.

    Next is the governor cover and governor shaft seal. The return springs on the shaft are very strong and a bugger to reset once released. You can avoid releasing the top spring by restraining it with a cable tie. Push the little lever under the accelerator arm left as far as it will go, then pull the cable tie tight. Look carefully at the top of the governor shaft, at the nut. There may be a small white line. If so, scribe a mark on the accelerator arm (the flat arm, not the spring cup) to match the line on the shaft. If there is no shaft line, scribe your own line on both the shaft and the arm to assure proper alignment on reassembly. I did not know that there was no positive alignment index between the shaft and the arm and had to realign it by trial and error … mostly error.



    Now remove the nut at the top of the shaft, push the under lever to the right to unhook it from the upper spring, lift the upper spring and governor arm off the shaft, then slowly let the under lever unwind until loose. The upper spring and its cup are separate from the governor arm and will lift off, but it does not need to be removed from the arm. Remove the under lever and its spring & washer. Do NOT fool with the maximum RPM screw on the cover (the closer one). You may need to remove the idle speed screw for better access to a cover screw.



    The four screws holding the governor cover were just as stuck as the two on the high pressure head, and required the same technique to prevent destroying the slots. Once the screws are broken free, loosen the locknut on the maximum fuel screw and use a small screwdriver to fully remove it. It is to the right of the fuel cutoff solenoid in the photo below. Replace the little O-ring on it (grease lightly) and set it aside until after the cover has been put back on.



    I had some trouble removing the governor cover because I did not know what to expect. Leave two of the cover screws loosely in place while you use a thin putty knife or such to crack the cover free. Remove the screws and lift the cover just enough to see inside. At the output end of the pump, look for the governor lever and use a small screwdriver or such to push it gently toward the shaft end while lifting toward the cover. It may take a few tries, but that should cause the governor arm to release from the governor lever by aligning the slot in the lever with the flat on the spring shaft. Then you can lift off the governor cover. WARNING: the picture below shows the governor arm in the wrong orientation because it got pulled out of position while I was fumbling around trying to disengage it from the lever. The joint between the governor arm and the spring shaft should be directly down, not off to the right.



    Pick the cover gasket out and replace it. The new gasket in my kit had a bunch of little bumps along its sides that I had to trim off so that it would fit down into the cover slot. I suppose other pump versions have wider slots. Push the governor arm out of the cover, replace the O-ring, lightly grease it and push the arm back into place. To install the governor cover, align the flat in the spring shaft with the slot in the governor lever, drop it into the slot, then pull gently toward the pump front (shaft) to seat the round part of the shaft into the lever. Tighten the cover screws evenly to compress the gasket. The cover does not have to seat completely to seal, as long as the screws are good and tight. My cover was slightly raised at one end even with very tight screws (15 ft# or so), but does not leak. Reinstall the maximum fuel screw and snug the locknut.

    Installing the governor arm is the reverse of removal. Install the under lever and its spring & washer, hold the lever in its proper position against its spring then install the throttle arm aligned with your scribe mark. Once the arm is on you can release the under lever, install the lockwasher and nut onto the shaft, make sure the upper spring tail is caught by the under lever, and cut the cable tie.

    If your shaft seal is not leaking, you may wish to leave it alone. I replaced mine (it was a 17mm) for good measure. You can remove the seal with the shaft in place using a modified flat blade screwdriver. Select a large sturdy one you can afford to lose if you get the grinding wrong the first time, but it is not critical by any means. Round off all edges on a fine stone or wheel so that it does not tend to scratch or gouge.



    Avoiding pressing hard against the pump shaft, gently jam (is that an oxymoron?) it through the rubber part until the tip hits the inner wall of the seal under the metal rim, and pry up. If the seal metal rips on the first pry as mine did, just move to another spot and repeat. Mine popped out on the second pry. A screwdriver with a thicker tip would have likely worked better. Use a small piece of electrical tape to cover the keyway and protect the seal from nicks, and lightly grease the seal lips. Choose a deep socket nearly the same diameter as the seal metal rim (I think I used a 7/8") as a seal driver, and gently tap in the new seal. Watch very carefully at the beginning that the seal goes in level, because they just love to become tilted and jammed.

Reinstall the rear mount plate. The mount plate screws should be tighter to resist vibration but the slotted ones only need to be nicely snug (10-12 ft# range maybe?). The screws do not affect sealing; they merely hold the head in place against the pumping pressure.

And you’re done J. Just reinstall the pump, line up the scribe marks you made, and tension the timing belt. I do not have the special belt tensioning gauge, but it is not that critical - I set it so that if I press the backside of the belt midway between the idler and the crankshaft with maybe 5# force, it moves about 1/8", fairly snug but not like a banjo string. You want to take up the slack so that the belt does not flop around as it runs, but excess tension will speed up wear on the injection pump driveshaft bearing. Turn the engine through a couple of revolutions with the crank bolt and recheck the tension.

    When I first reinstalled my pump into the car, it took forever to bleed out the injector lines and even then the engine would not start. It would barely fire on one cylinder. As I mentioned earlier, I had installed the governor shaft incorrectly. On my pump, there was a thin white line in the top of the governor shaft that needed to align with the arm as in the photo below. I originally assembled it 90 degrees off, causing the pump to remain nearly off regardless of the throttle arm position.



    Other than the stubborn fasteners, the reseal process presented no real difficulty, and should take at most half a day. My resealed pump is working wonderfully with not a single drop of leakage in several thousand miles so far.





 
1985 jetta TD. It was free, and it shows. Down and dirty engine refresh made it run fairly well.... No leaks, except water into the cabin!

2001 golf Tdi. Heavy built ALH, soon to have a PD Frankenstein motor.

Reply #10February 17, 2015, 12:24:29 am

crawdaddy

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2015, 12:24:29 am »
Was watching a youtube video about the same thing.
I found it extremely informative.
8 part video, and they do all the seals, even the round one on the end. Part 2, about 3:30 min into the video they start doing the round seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR44StvcXms

Reply #11April 15, 2016, 04:02:20 pm

PaulamI

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #11 on: April 15, 2016, 04:02:20 pm »
Hi, so I changed the pump O-ring in situ, used a longer screw in the timing hole as suggested and screwed it in as I back the head out.  Now I can't get a prime. I used a miti-vac on the return to pull in fuel, cracked the injectors, turned it over abut a dozen times for 5-10 seconds, nothing.  Any ideas?  Did I mess the pump up somehow?

Reply #12April 15, 2016, 04:22:10 pm

vanbcguy

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #12 on: April 15, 2016, 04:22:10 pm »
Hi, so I changed the pump O-ring in situ, used a longer screw in the timing hole as suggested and screwed it in as I back the head out.  Now I can't get a prime. I used a miti-vac on the return to pull in fuel, cracked the injectors, turned it over abut a dozen times for 5-10 seconds, nothing.  Any ideas?  Did I mess the pump up somehow?

When you say you can't get a prime what exactly do you mean? Are you seeing air in the return line with the Miti-Vac?
Bryn

1994 Jetta - AHU M-TDI - Jezebel Jetta
2004 Jetta Wagon - 1.8T - Blitzen

Reply #13April 15, 2016, 06:49:49 pm

PaulamI

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Re: Pump resealing
« Reply #13 on: April 15, 2016, 06:49:49 pm »
I hooked up an electric fuel pump and got it going.  Thanks for the reply Bryn

 

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