Author Topic: AWY trans blew - what to replace with? (Read 13834 times)

chrissev · « **Reply #15 on:** April 24, 2005, 07:10:09 am »

a lupo would be amazing. I wish they would bring them to Canada. That would be my next car.

srivett · « **Reply #16 on:** April 26, 2005, 09:32:55 am »

I just called Frisco and was told they have nothing for a 92 VW diesel. Ah well, I don't like visiting the Zoo too often. :lol:

Steve

srivett · « **Reply #17 on:** May 10, 2005, 02:00:59 am »

Just went for my first trip with the AGS. I'm happyish to say that my car is now a gutless highway cruiser. All of my gears are shifted 1 position to the left so I'll have to figure that out before I use the car for work. Sooo, it took me from April 21st to May 10th to get things together. The first week was my pondering what to do, the second week was me pulling the gearbox and sealing up the new one, and the 3rd week was me doing nothing but waiting for decent reman axles so I could put in the AGS. Next week I tackle the timing belt and alternator pulley! :twisted:

Cheers, Steve

chrissev · « **Reply #18 on:** May 10, 2005, 10:07:11 pm »

Quote from: "srivett"

Just went for my first trip with the AGS. I'm happyish to say that my car is now a gutless highway cruiser. All of my gears are shifted 1 position to the left so I'll have to figure that out before I use the car for work. Sooo, it took me from April 21st to May 10th to get things together. The first week was my pondering what to do, the second week was me pulling the gearbox and sealing up the new one, and the 3rd week was me doing nothing but waiting for decent reman axles so I could put in the AGS. Next week I tackle the timing belt and alternator pulley! :twisted:

Cheers, Steve

the t-belt is easy. Main things to remember are:
#1. the flywheel has two notches in it. One indicates TDC, the other indicates TDC minus 180 degrees. The notch you want has the little "0" beside it.
#2. The injection pump locking pin is almost useless. To get the pump pulley in the right place you have to hold it at TDC with your hand.
#3. Everyone will tell you to do this, and you will try, and say it is too hard, and not bother doing it, then you will destroy your engine. So, DO take the cam pulley off, don't take it off by using the cam locking tool to lock the cam then putting pressure on the cam bolt, instead use the timing belt to lock the cam and get the bolt off that way, and do use a puller to take the cam pulley off, not a hammer. If you just leave the cam pulley in place and put the new belt on, you will not be able to line up the crank and cam pulleys and the timing will be off enough to cause piston/valve contact. This is because all timing belts are a little different. (I'm not lying...I did this to a 79 rabbit I had and caused piston/valve contact. Since then, I always take the cam pulley off when I replace the t-belt).

Have fun. It shouldn't take you that long (unless your car has poor compression, in which case you will not be able to get the crank pulley to remain in the same place while you are putting the belt on...time for a rebuild)

chrissev · « **Reply #19 on:** May 10, 2005, 10:22:05 pm »

Quote from: "srivett"

Just went for my first trip with the AGS. I'm happyish to say that my car is now a gutless highway cruiser.

Gutless? I guess yours isn't a turbo then? AGS works best on turbo cars. If you drive at 130km/hr like I do, your engine will be revving at 3300 rpm, which gives you some guts. Or alternatively just leave it in fourth gear and you have the equivalent of a close ratio fifth gear.

Topherdiesel · « **Reply #20 on:** May 11, 2005, 07:56:03 am »

Chrissev, do you think you could find out for me if frisco has an ATH tranny lying around?

rackley · « **Reply #21 on:** May 11, 2005, 11:47:24 am »

Quote from: "srivett"

:twisted: My dad exploded reverse in my AWY last night so I'm looking for a tranny too. Anybody in Ontario got something that'll work in a 92 Golf non-turbo?

Thanks, Steve

He has a non-turbo.

srivett · « **Reply #22 on:** May 11, 2005, 05:34:53 pm »

Rackley:
Sorry about hijacking your thread...what did you end up doing with your car?

If you aren't done fixing it up I highly recommend replacing all of the shifter components before you reinstall the gearbox. I'd also recommend paying the hours labour to have the seals done on the gearbox because it took me several hours to do it since I had to swap the hubs out of the old box (hubs in AGS were worn out and AWY hubs were stuck on). I used a 3 foot long sliding c-clamp meant for woodworking to reinstall the hubs. The AWY also had better designed spring washers for the axle clips so I swapped them into the AGS. One last thing, when you remove the hubs check the brass cones and swap them as necessary too. The shop I bought the gearbox from told me to do this and as it turned out one of those brass things was busted into several pieces.

Timing is going to be difficult for me because the TDC pointer was damaged by either a blown differential or a clutch that fell off. I'm not sure which it was...but by no means think that Woody ripped me off on this gearbox. I told him I wanted an AGS and he only had the one so that's what he gave me. If I told him I wanted his best low mileage 020 he would have given that to me instead. He's a great guy to deal with and he had all of the seals I needed in stock at a good price.

Cheers, Steve

chrissev · « **Reply #23 on:** May 11, 2005, 07:56:09 pm »

Quote

Timing is going to be difficult for me because the TDC pointer was damaged by either a blown differential or a clutch that fell off. I'm not sure which it was...but by no means think that Woody ripped me off on this gearbox. I told him I wanted an AGS and he only had the one so that's what he gave me. If I told him I wanted his best low mileage 020 he would have given that to me instead. He's a great guy to deal with and he had all of the seals I needed in stock at a good price.

Cheers, Steve

The pointer is at 9:00 in the viewing hole. If it is gone, just find 9:00 and draw one in yourself.

rackley · « **Reply #24 on:** May 11, 2005, 09:31:19 pm »

I still haven't done anything with the car, it's up on jacks in the garage. I'm waiting for the next paycheck to roll in before I pick up the AGS. Just dreading doing that stupid clutch cable!

srivett · « **Reply #25 on:** May 11, 2005, 09:53:21 pm »

The clutch cable is a piece of cake. On the outside you just lift the lever up and remove the cable clip that is held on by gravity. Then you move on to the inside. On the inside all you do is remove the plastic shield under the dash and pop the end of the cable off the pedal. From what I have heard the manual cables are better so that is what I used to replace my auto cable. After you have it in take a guess at the freeplay and go for a drive. Then do the final adjustment. It shouldn't take more than half an hour no matter how hard you try to waste time.

FWIW, the AOP has a better reverse switch and is a couple years newer than the AGS. Whatever you buy, grab the wiring pigtail just in case.

Steve

rackley · « **Reply #26 on:** May 12, 2005, 02:05:00 pm »

How long did it take you to do the trans swap total?

srivett · « **Reply #27 on:** May 12, 2005, 02:33:49 pm »

I'm going to guess 10 hours but I wasted a lot of time being stubborn.

If you've got a Bentley add the following steps to the list:
-use jackstands, ramps will make it a real pain to undo CV hub bolts (buy the Snap-On tool!!!)
-powerwash everything from every angle
-drain gearbox overnight
-drain coolant and remove metal pipe
-leave the two horizontal gearbox mount bolts and metal bracket on the transmission
-undo axle shafts, cover inner CV joints with plastic bags, undo engine-tranny bolts, rotate gearbox so that differential is sticking straight up
-push engine over to passenger side of car and remove gearbox

The key to the R/R is getting the diff facing up and out of the way of the axles.

Steve

rackley · « **Reply #28 on:** May 12, 2005, 09:11:32 pm »

I replaced all my CV bolts with bolts from McMaster that are standard hex head bolts. MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to take on and off.

Thanks for the tips.

Do you mean rotate the diff/trans so that the hubs are pointing up and down? So the trans would be vertical? Sounds like a mean feat to do with a jack :-)

srivett · « **Reply #29 on:** May 12, 2005, 09:24:47 pm »

The gearbox only weighs under 80 pounds so you won't need a jack for it. You will need a jack for the engine because you undo all of the mounts (I used a motorcycle jack which is pretty much a transmission jack). You rotate the gearbox about the input shaft so that you can then pull the thing away from the engine far enough to clear the clutch. You can't pull the transmission away from the engine without doing this because the drivers axle is in the way. To remove the transaxle I grabbled hold of the transaxle mount from above, rotated it, and then dropped it on the floor when I had it clear of the clutch. To get it back in I put it on my chest and crawled under the car with it. Benching it is interesting but you ought to wear a helmet or something incase you drop it on your face.

Steve