Get yerself a Bentley manual MK II Jetta/Golf (1985-1992). It covers all models including Diesels (turbo too, but that section is extremely thin). It covers all the dealer specified maintenance for the vehicle. You can usually find a good used copy on ebay for about $20-40. You can also try amazon, abebooks.com, or
www.vwvortex.com. They come up from time to time. You shouldn't pay much more than about $35 to have one shipped to your door.
As far as your problems:
1) Injection Pump. Removing the pump is quite easy. You just need to uncrew the stop-solenoid wire, the 4 injection lines, the accelerator cable, the cold-start cable, and 4 bolts that hold the pump to the housing. Follow the Bentley instructions for removal.
You'll need the correct puller to get the sprocket off the pump before you can completely remove it. Jack at
www.vwdieselparts.com has one for $75. Check it out here:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/tools.htmI've seen some cheapy home-made ones on ebay for reasonable prices. I bought one from Jack since I do a lot of work on these cars. It's really nice quality. But the ones on ebay should work. Here's a link for one of the homemade ones that comes with the IP locking pin:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/vw-diesel-injection-pump-gear-puller-timming-pin_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ007QQitemZ170185728949QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWIf you're not in the mood to buy the puller, you can do what I did before I bought the right tool. Loosen the 19mm nut on the pump sprocket first (about 4 turns), but LEAVE THE NUT ON THE SHAFT. Then, remove all the bolts, lines and wires to the pump so that the pump is flopping around inside the bracket. Hold the back side of the sprocket flat against the mounting bracket. Take a rubber hammer and give the center of the pump sprocket (i.e. nut) a few good whacks until the sprocket pops loose. By leaving the nut on the shaft, you won't lose the woodruff key. By using a rubber hammer, you reduce the risk of damage to the nut, the input shaft or the mounting bracket. Take the nut, key and sprocket off and you're ready to address the pump itself.
2) If the pump is working fine, and/or you're not too concerned with performance at the moment, and/or you working on the cheap, then you can simply have the pump resealed. red---rider (ebay name) in NC (not too far from you) can reseal it for about $150 shipped. He's done about 5 for me, and it's a fantastic bargain if you're leery about dealing with the pump internals yourself. Here's his ebay listing for the service:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Resealed_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ015QQitemZ250203778727QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWTurnaround is about 1-2 weeks.
If the pump is NOT working properly, then you may want to consider a rebuild. prothe rebuilds them (ebay and vwdiesel.net user name) for about $300-400. That's a fair bargain when you consider a normal rebuild runs about $500-700. If you want a Giles rebuild for performance, you're looking at about $600-1000 after shipping etc.
DO NOT buy a used pump unless it came off a recently running car that got smashed AND the pump was recently rebuilt. ANY used pump is going to start leaking at some point, unless it has been rebuilt/resealed in the past 4 months. The new fuel mandated by the EPA is causing all the leaks. It's inevitable that an old (1995-older) pump will start leaking once it's been run on the new ULSD (ultra low sulphur diesel) sold in the US.
3) To reinstall the pump, you will need to buy/rent a dial indicator, IP sprocket lock pin, cam lock plate and timing tensioner wrench. You can get 3 of those from a guy in Germany who sells on ebay who's got all 3 for about $70-80. The nice thing about his dial indicator is that it's graded in mm, unlike most of the dial indicators sold here in the US which are graded in inches.
prothe (user name on ebay, and has an account here too), also sells a whole tool kit for the job, including the timing tensioner tool for $70. For all the tools, it's a good deal. It's not professional quality, but for your purposes, I'm sure that they'll be perfect. Here's a link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Diesel-Injector-Pump-Timing-Gauge-Tools-Injection_W0QQitemZ230212844927QQihZ013QQcategoryZ43989QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemJack at vwdieselparts.com used to rent many of these tools. I'm not sure if he does anymore.
Follow the Bentley instuctions for procedure on reinstall. Or, do a search here for my posts, I think I did a long explanation on somebody's post about how to time the belt and the IP.
4) When you put your pump back on, it would be a great time to replace the:
water pump (w/housing)
thermostat
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
cam seal
intermediate shaft seals (there are 2)
front main seal
Lower water hoses (to heater line, and to rad)
Follow the instructions in the Bentley manual for the timing belt job. It's straight-forward and pretty easy. Just take your time and double/triple check that the marks are all correct. You may need to read the instructions 5 times to completely get what they're telling you to do (I still reference it all the time), and when it's all done, be sure to turn the motor over by hand at least 2 times to make sure that nothing is binding.
If you car does NOT have AC, then you can probably hold off on the water pump (assuming it's ok), since replacement of the pump can be done without removing the timing belt or the Injection pump. BUT, I will give you some sound advice on the water pump given my experiences with these cars in recent years:
If your pump has been leaking, and you will be removing it for service, you really MUST replace the water pump housing seal (the one between the housing and the block). The diesel fuel leaks down the block, degrades that seal, and causes leaks down the road. Since you'll have to replace that, you may as well go ahead and replace the water pump. New water pumps with housings are not that expensive (about $60-100). Since your car relies on cool temps (overheat and it's a blown head gasket), it's a nice preventative measure.
As far as the WP housing seal, trust me, if you do the IP job once, you won't want to do it again. You see, in order to replace that WP seal, you have to remove the Injection Pump (on AC cars, but still easier on NON-AC cars with the IP off) in order to access the bolts that hold the housing to the block. ON AC cars, you have to remove the AC mounting bracket. If you've got it all apart, then go ahead and replace the water pump, the thermostat and the housing seal (to the block: gasket is the same as the thermostat gasket) at the same time. You'll thank yourself later.
Again, you should replace the lower rad/front heater hoses too. I just did this job on a 1982 Rabbit Pickup and the guy wanted it done cheap. I suggested the hoses and he balked. One week later, he called me and told me both lower hoses blew (the one to the rad and the one to the heater distribution pipe that runs along the block). Thankfully, he didn't overheat the car.
So, there's the story in about a nutshell. This is all outlined in the Bentley, save for the personal tips. We're all here to help if you're in a bind. The big thing is to do research first (not a problem since this car isn't a daily, and the weather outside sucks), and take your time.
Just for schnitz and giggles, here's what you're looking at for costs:
REQUIRED:Bentley Manual $20-50
Timing Belt $15-25
Timing Belt tensioner $15-30
Water Pump $30-45; W/housing $50-75 some brands come with housing
seals and t-stat seals too
Thermostat $12-25
Cam seal $5-8
Front main seal $5-8: same as above
Intermediate shaft seal $5-8: same as above
Intermediate shaft seal housing 0-ring seal $1-4
Lower Rad hose $5-15
Heater distribution/water pipe hose $5-10
Cooling hose (water pump to cyl head): $10-18
New V-Belts $15-30
TOOLSDial indicator, IP lock pin, cam lock pin, tensioner wrench: $80 from
prothe on ebay.
IP sprocket puller $40-80 on ebay or vwdieselparts.com (or use hammer
trick above)
Or, try to rent the tools above from Jack at vwdieselparts.com if he still rents them
In all, you're looking at about $400-700 for parts, tools and IP reseal service. If you can rent the tools, then it will cost less.
If you want/need to rebuild the pump, then figure on doubling that figure.
If you want to have a performance Giles rebuild of the pump, then triple that figure.
Now, how does this compare to having it done at a shop: it doesn't. Here's why. Most shops (even diesel specialty shops) are not familiar with these old VW diesels, and most mechanics don't know either VWs or diesels. Chances are, any normal shop would tell you to rebuild the pump. That's an automatic $600-800 at the shop before they even remove it or reinstall it. They' won't know to do all the other stuff either. Figure at least 4-7 hours labor on the timing belt and the IP reinstall, and you're looking at about $1000-1500 to have a rebuilt pump put on your car, with a new TB and water pump (without housing). Then, you'll still have to replace the hoses, seals, etc.
Here at my shop in TN, I charge a mere $700 for an IP reseal, timing belt, seals water pump and t-stat. If there are other problems (hoses, AC bracket problems, motor mounts, etc), then the price goes up from there. But, the car usually sits here for 2 weeks while the pump is resealed. But in your case, this shouldn't be an issue.
Anyway, I'd say do it yourself if you feel you're up to it. As libbybapa notes, there's no greater satisfaction in knowing your own car, and being able to fix it.
Keep us posted, we're always here to help.
FYI: If your heater core is bad, it might be covered by VWs recall bulletin for the MK II Jetta and Golf. Call your local VW dealer, give them the VIN and have them check. They'll be able to tell if it's been replaced under the recall. If it is, then you get the job done for FREE! If not, that job is a BIYOTCH.
P.S. DO NOT buy tools from ZDMAK. That guy is a queef.
Topic: Total Newbie, injection pump questions (Read 5920 times)
