Author Topic: Head Gasket replacment and ip timing (Read 5051 times)

chasingrabbitsvw · « **on:** December 29, 2007, 06:59:13 pm »

I pulled my head today to change the head gasket. Im sending the head to the machine shop monday morning to get checked out and resurfaced. I should have a new set of injectors by monday too. Everything looks to be in pretty good shape. I only have 143k on the motor so far. Some odd things though that I noticed and need to set right.

1. Im having a real *** of a time getting those injectors out. I soaked them good with penetrating oil too.
2. the valve timing was off slightly. thats an easy fix.
3. with the flywheel and cam at TDC, the ip pulley locking holes are located in the 12 and 6 o clock positions. - this seems wrong.
4. Is there anything special I should ask the machine shop to do or check while they have it? Im sending it there to make sure its straight and to resurface it.
5. Im gonna clean the head bolt holes with parts cleaner and compressed air tomorrow. any tips on cleaning the top of the block and cylinders?

pics:

jimfoo · « **Reply #1 on:** December 29, 2007, 07:34:33 pm »

Well, the injectors should be taken out with a warm engine, though it's a little late for that unless you can sneak it in the oven. :wink:

subsonic · « **Reply #2 on:** December 29, 2007, 09:20:57 pm »

impact wrench/ air wrench.

chasingrabbitsvw · « **Reply #3 on:** December 29, 2007, 10:07:28 pm »

aint got an air/impact wrench but I got a torch... I just dont know if its such a good idea to be using here. I could possibly set the oven for operating temperature and try that. Im at my parents house, so I'll just have to wait for my mother to go to work :wink:

subsonic · « **Reply #4 on:** December 29, 2007, 11:31:58 pm »

Naaa,
I got mine off after the head was removed, you can too.

I reefed on mine with a breaker bar. I was worried about breaking the head but out they came.

Put in on it's side with the exhaust side facing the ground. Use the PB blaster and a socket. You may need to have someone hold down the end of the head to keep it from lifting as you put the muscle to it. Back and forth, back and forth, More oil, let it sit a few min. Out they come.

jtanguay · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2007, 02:14:29 am »

just remember to do 1/4 turns, then screw the injector back in. then back out always screwing the injector back in 1/2 of 1/4. it's to prevent damage to the threads from the 'crap' buildup.

Quantum TD · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2007, 02:57:47 am »

The cylinders look pretty good, so you shouldn't have to don anything to those before putting the head back on.

As far as cleaning the head-bolt threads, you really ought to chase the threads with a tap. You should be able to find one at your local bolt store for about $10-15. Its the best way to do it. Then, spray with brake cleaner, and blow them out with compressed air (with a rag over the hole so that the cleaner doesn't blow out and blind you). If you don't chase the threads, you run the risk of getting off readings from your torque wrench.

Now, the head. Be sure to take it to a reputable shop that is familiar with foreign cars, not some boneheads that work just on 350 Chevys. If the head needs to be resurfaced, there are only 2 proper ways that your 1.6D head can be milled/resurfaced:

1) Remove the prechamber inserts (the round pucks where the injectors bolt in), and then mill the head like any other aluminum head. Afterwards, they'll have to sand/mill the pucks separately and reinstall into the head. If they try to mill the head with the pucks in place, they'll rip out the inserts, destroy the cutter blades, and likely tear thru your head in the process.

2) Grind the surface with the pucks still installed. This is my preferred method, as you don't have to worry about the pucks ever breaking free down the road (not a real concern either way). BUT, you'll need to find a shop that has a precision grinder to give a nice polished surface.

Some shops will put the head on a table sander. My local head shop did that to 2 of my heads. I din't know better at the time. We'll find out how long it takes for the head gaskets to blow.

Good luck

chasingrabbitsvw · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2007, 03:11:27 pm »

Thanks for the info. I still have not gotten the injectors out yet. they are currently soaking in penetrating oil. Im having a little trouble removing the last 2 studs on the exhaust side too. Should I remove the camshaft before sending it out? I plan on cleaning it well, but is there anything else I need to do before dropping the head off at the machine shop?

Quantum TD · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2007, 11:54:51 am »

Most shops will charge you extra to pull out the cam and lifters. So, you may want to do it yourself. They'll also clean it anyway, so there's really no need to clean it, unless you want to inspect it before you send it out ( a good idea).

As far as removing the cam, there is a seqence for removing the journal caps. I THINK, that it's 5, 3, then 1 (in that order). Then loosen the #2 and 4 journals evenly (i.e. loosen each of the 4 nuts a little bit, and keep moving until all are loosened). Reinstall the cam journals in their PROPER location after you have the cam out. Some journals have the numbers stamped on the top, some don't. They also only go in one way. If you lose the orientaion (which way the caps go on), then look to the #1 journal cap. The bottom edge should have a square projection, while the top has a rectangular projection. All the caps have the same profile, so just match the projections up and you're fine.

Once the cam is out, remove the lifters and store them in a clean place and keep track of their order. I usually put the lifters into little Ziploc bags, with numbers put on the outside.

Once the lifters are out, you may want to check and see if your camshaft is bent at all, or if you head is (was) ever warped really bad. To do this, remove the cam journals again, oil up the journals, and then reinstall the cam without the lifters in place. Then, reinstall the cam journal caps in reverse sequence, (2 and 4, then 1, 3, 5). As you tighten each cap, try to spin the camshaft by hand. If at any point, you find it gets harder (or impossible) to spin the camshaft by hand, then the camshaft is binding, and you may have a bent camshaft or a head that is (or was) severely warped at some point. A shop can remedy this issue, but will need the head with the camshaft.

If it turns out that you need/want to do a valve job (cut the seats, grind the valves), then make sure that the shop knocks the same amount that they took off the seats/valve bases off the top of the valve stem. If they remove a ton of material, and don't trim the tops of the stems, then you may not be able to properly adjust the valve shims when you put the head back in. The best thing to do may be to reinstall the lifters and the cam before you put the head back on. With the head off the car, rotate the cam as if you were adjusting the valves. If you can't adjust the valve shims, then you may have to take the head back to have them trim the valve stem tips. But all of this is only applicable if you have a valve job done. But, with the head off, a valve job is not a bad idea.

Let us know what you find out.

chasingrabbitsvw · « **Reply #9 on:** January 19, 2008, 10:43:30 pm »

I just got my 1.6 diesel head back from the machine shop. Its out of my 81 coupe. Tell me what you think of the work.

what they did for $390:

valve grind
new valve guides and seals
valve adjustment
milled the block and cleaned everything up

before:

after:

fresh in the bag.

Now, I'm not sure what to make of this. I did not notice until I got it on my bench at home.

heres the block, the cylinders are in perfect condition. very shinny.

one of the car for good measure

blkboostedtruck · « **Reply #10 on:** January 19, 2008, 11:30:11 pm »

don't worry about the crack between the valves! thats normal! if you had a crack going from the valve to the swirl chamber then thats a problem! but otherwise it looks good! and price not bad either! i suggest getting a g60 rubber 1pc. valve cover gasket to keep the oil from leaking on that nice new looking head!
thanks Duane

MaxHedrm · « **Reply #11 on:** January 20, 2008, 12:07:47 am »

That thing needs a coat of high temp clear coat.

purdy

chasingrabbitsvw · « **Reply #12 on:** January 20, 2008, 07:42:41 pm »

Yeah, I got the rubber one piece valve cover gasket kit. F cork gaskets. I got the head in tonight, but I still got a bunch to finish up tomorrow. The toughest thing is gonna be to time this sucker. I know Im beating a dead horse with this issue here, but I've never done it before and I know that the timing was off to begin with. With the fly wheel and cam both at TDC, the the ip pulley locking holes are located in the 12 and 6 o clock positions not at 9 and 3. The pump is moved really close to the motor too. In fact, it is move so close to the motor that when the injector lines are installed, the second line comes in contact with the pump. This brings me to my question:

With the pump moved just about all the way toward the motor and the locking holes at 12 and 6, how should I turn the sprocket to lock the IP at TDC? Should I simply turn it counter-clockwise a quarter of a turn or what? I suspect that the timing was slightly retarded even with the pump moved toward the motor.

Vincent Waldon · « **Reply #13 on:** January 20, 2008, 08:21:07 pm »

My personal opinion is that with the belt off you can and probably should line up the pump properly... with the locking hole at 4:00 and a pin in the hole to hold it still:

Unless someone has done something very creative with your high pressure hoses, OR the sprocket went back on the IP without the key, this is where the pump needs to be at TDC on #1 so that it is sending fuel to the correct cylinder. I usually pull the pump all the way forward when beginning the timing proceedure... this results in a smaller number than you're aiming for, but then you have a frame of reference.