Author Topic: mechanical valve adjustment (Read 5973 times)

jtanguay · « **on:** March 15, 2005, 11:11:46 pm »

I think I'm due for some valve adjustment on my car. I hear a lot of lifter noise coming from the engine. Would a car that needs valve adjustment run crappy, and start crappy? Just curious, as my car is starting crappier and crappier lol...

Any tips/tricks to adjusting the valves, or is it like any other north american mechanical adjustment job?

thanks guys!

veeman · « **Reply #1 on:** March 16, 2005, 07:24:26 am »

>>Any tips/tricks to adjusting the valves, or is it like any other north american mechanical adjustment job?

Not sure what make / model you have or what head style you have, but if it's a solid lifter head, then you have to use special shims to get the clearances right.

There are a few special tools that make the job easier (like a tappet depressor http://www.sirtools.com/vw_audi.htm ) and you'll need a feeler gage as well as an assortment of shims. Normally shops will have a whole kit of varying thicknesses and they swap them around to give you the correct adjustment.

Got a Bentley or a manual for the car? They'll have more info as well...

Best of luck.

jtanguay · « **Reply #2 on:** March 16, 2005, 10:21:48 am »

hmmm well its 1986 Jetta 1.6TD. I might just get a shop to do it then!
The car sounds like a tractor, so it's definitely mechanical lifter.

Thanks for the info

racer_x · « **Reply #3 on:** March 17, 2005, 05:20:01 am »

1986 was the year they changed over to hydraulic lifters (I think). So yours could be either.

If you look under the oil fill cap, do you see cam lobes? Or a plastic shield/cover? If you see cam lobes, it's 90% sure its solid lifters. If you see the plastic cover, it might be hydraulic. A lot of people add the plastic cover on the solid lifters so seeing the cover isn't as good an indication of hydraulic lifter. Seeing the lobes is a strong indication of solid lifters, though.

Doing it yourself isn't too bad. You do need the tools. That page that Veeman linked to shows the two tools you need. One is the "Tappet depressor" for the early engines (VA6008 on that page), and the other is the "valve shim plier" (10-208 on that page). You can often find those tools on eBay as a set for a decent price.

For shims, I went to some junkyards and harvested a few spares several times over a few months. But you can measure what you have and figure out what you need and order new ones for just what you need. The thicknesses and part numbers for the various valve shims are in Bentley (I know they are in the A1 Bentley). You measure the clearance, then pull the shims you have and measure them. With that you know the thickness of the shim you need and can get the part number.

jtanguay · « **Reply #4 on:** March 17, 2005, 07:33:17 am »

excellent info thanks! I'm 100% sure its solid lifter

I've heard hydraulic valve diesel IDI's and they sound much much quieter than mine.

dieseltech · « **Reply #5 on:** March 19, 2005, 08:02:22 pm »

Quote from: "jtanguay"

excellent info thanks! I'm 100% sure its solid lifter I've heard hydraulic valve diesel IDI's and they sound much much quieter than mine.

dunno i got a 86 and the lifters get ***ty after 100,000 miles and realy start to clatter if the oil changes were neglected or too thin of a oil was used(sae-30 or 15w-40 are the thinist oils that should be used in a vw diesel unless you are running sinthetinc like me, then delvac1 5w-40 by mobile is a good choice). every 86 that had the original engine that i have worked on had hydro. look under the hood for the orange/yellow sticker. see if it gives a listing for valve adj. the sticker could be on the shock tower or radiator support.
if they are hydro and you are replacing them, stay away from TRW lifters
see if you can get fibi/bilstine from a good import auto pars store.
the TRW lifters dont hold up well on a diesel

DieselsRcool · « **Reply #6 on:** March 19, 2005, 08:28:18 pm »

Yep, crappy hydraulic lifters make these things run like an old poppin Johnny. :shock: