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Author Topic: IDI to TDI  (Read 47987 times)

Reply #120March 10, 2008, 09:57:28 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #120 on: March 10, 2008, 09:57:28 am »
Thanks everyone! I couldn't have done it without all of you and your knowledge, that's for sure. Hopefully it won't be too long before it's on the road again.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #121March 10, 2008, 10:17:02 am

burn_your_money

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« Reply #121 on: March 10, 2008, 10:17:02 am »
Very exciting. Congrats  :D
Tyler

Reply #122March 10, 2008, 10:21:25 am

burn_your_money

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« Reply #122 on: March 10, 2008, 10:21:25 am »
Quote from: "jimfoo"




I'm surprised no one said anything about my tensioner being turned the wrong way.


It looks right to me???
Tyler

Reply #123March 10, 2008, 10:28:10 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #123 on: March 10, 2008, 10:28:10 am »
I thought it is supposed to be turned so that belt rotation would turn it in the direction of tighter. In the picture, belt rotation would turn it towards looser.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #124March 10, 2008, 10:42:48 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #124 on: March 10, 2008, 10:42:48 am »
Well damn, I looked it up, and yes I did have it right in the picture. Guess I better redo it. :oops:
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #125March 10, 2008, 11:12:24 am

zukgod1

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« Reply #125 on: March 10, 2008, 11:12:24 am »
Quote from: "jimfoo"
Well damn, I looked it up, and yes I did have it right in the picture. Guess I better redo it. :oops:


Holly crap I had better check mine now..

I may have mine backwards.
dan

99 Golf TDI (now CNG powered) , 82 TD Caddy

Reply #126March 10, 2008, 11:26:28 am

rallydiesel

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« Reply #126 on: March 10, 2008, 11:26:28 am »
I propose this style of engine be called the "jimfoo"!!!!!! I will be building my own jimfoo just as soon as I can source a cheap AAZ (seems to be getting harder and harder lately).
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #127March 10, 2008, 01:20:19 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #127 on: March 10, 2008, 01:20:19 pm »
:lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #128March 10, 2008, 07:08:07 pm

Vincent Waldon

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« Reply #128 on: March 10, 2008, 07:08:07 pm »
Hey... your test run was caught on video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIPMpUjnbOs
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #129March 10, 2008, 07:44:52 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #129 on: March 10, 2008, 07:44:52 pm »
Quote from: "Vincent Waldon"
Hey... your test run was caught on video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIPMpUjnbOs


omfg that guy is pro!!!  :shock:


This is how we deal with porn spammers! You've been warned.

Reply #130March 13, 2008, 10:04:04 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #130 on: March 13, 2008, 10:04:04 am »
A short novel about frustration.

No, I'm not driving it yet. I spent an entire day wrestling with the motor, trying to get it mated with the bellhousing. Since the turbo is a pain to deal with when the engine is in, I tried putting the whole thing in together, twisting, turning, prying and pushing. Not happening. So I lift it a little for better access and take the turbo off. Lower the engine in and begin again. No, plates on the engine for the motor mounts are in the way. Remove them and try again. I finally seem to have gotten it started and start putting some bolts in, but forget that one hole is for a short bolt. As I put in the long bolt, I seem to remember as it pushes the two halves of my adapter apart. GRRR, start from square one. I do finally get it started again, but it seems like it doesn't want to go. Realization hits me and I loosen the bolts and rock the truck in gear. Bang, the splines align and slip in place. I put the rest of the bolts in and test the clutch since I took some shims out from behind the pressure plate. The pedal is spongy, which is weird as it's a fairly new master. I pump it a few times and am greeted with a firm pedal, a clutch that works, and a stream of brake fluid running down the floor pan. I think Castrol GT LMA still must not be compatible, or maybe the seals hold until you put in ANY brake fluid, where their destiny of slowly dissolving begins. The next day, I wrestle with the motor mounts. I guess I should have tried making slots instead of holes, but I finally get them on. The turbo then goes on with a little fighting. I hook up the oil lines to the cooler and remote filter. I hook up everything else required to start it, and turn it over with the ignition off. No oil pressure shows, but the key probably needs to be on. So I crank it with the key on but no fuel and still nothing. So I hook up the fuel and start it. At least something still works. It runs, but I'm seeing no oil pressure. Crap. Crawl underneath and remove the filter as maybe I put the lines on backwards, and crank the starter. No, oil is coming from the right place. I go back in the car,  turn the key, start it and still no pressure. Then I realize the two gauges that normally light up with the ignition are dark, so probably none of the gauges have power. All the fusebox wiring looks good as do the fuses, so I'm thinking ignition switch, but my radio works, ruling that out. So I pull apart the dash where the gauges are. I see nothing amiss back there, and with a jumper, they work. So I pull the main dash off, and nothing looks out of place there. Looking at the fusebox again, I push on all the connectors again and some move a tiny bit. Finally the gauges light, but I'm tired and sore from lifting and contorting all day, so that's where things currently stand.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #131March 13, 2008, 11:37:10 am

burn_your_money

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« Reply #131 on: March 13, 2008, 11:37:10 am »
It'll all be worth it once you get it up to speed the first time :twisted:

Good to hear that you actually do have oil pressure. It would be such a piss off to have to take it all apart again.
Tyler

Reply #132March 13, 2008, 12:24:32 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #132 on: March 13, 2008, 12:24:32 pm »
Yet it does bother me that there seems to possibly be a bit of oil running down the front of the block. Not much but enough to piss me off since I put all new seals on it.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #133March 13, 2008, 06:08:20 pm

jimfoo

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« Reply #133 on: March 13, 2008, 06:08:20 pm »
Homer moment.  :oops:  Yeah, I guess it will leak oil of you don't put the camshaft seal in. I do have 60 psi cold oil pressure at idle thiough. :D
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #134March 14, 2008, 09:41:08 am

jimfoo

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« Reply #134 on: March 14, 2008, 09:41:08 am »
Quote from: "prothe"
I would think that when you put the original block back in the car, that it should go in easier.  Are you using the TDI transmission that is causing you extra frustration?

No, it's in a 1966 Land Rover in a longitudinal orientation with footwells that encroach on either side of the rear of the engine.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

 

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