Author Topic: TDI transplant won't warm up! (Read 3216 times)

MikkiJayne · « **on:** November 24, 2007, 06:42:26 pm »

Hi All,

Well I've completed my 1Z swap in to my Corrado, but I just can't get it to warm up properly

The thermostat is working properly, as I've taken it out and boiled it in a pan. It's definitely closed with the engine cold as I can take the bottom hose off and no water drains from it (only from the rad).

Driving it for an hour, or just letting it idle for half an hour won't get it above 70C (160F) where it should be 90C (190F), and was before the conversion with the 16V. I'm using a B3 rad, which is about the same size as the A3 donor, and all the cooling system is standard.

Any suggestions would be most welcome as I'm completely stumped :?

Tia, Mikki x

jackbombay · « **Reply #1 on:** November 24, 2007, 07:04:13 pm »

Is that 160 according to a gauge on the dash? Or is that what Vag-com says? Or is that from an aftermarket gauge?

If its one of the first 2 maybe the sensor is bad? If not, did you have a thermometer in the pan of water when you boiled the thermostat?

MikkiJayne · « **Reply #2 on:** November 24, 2007, 07:50:21 pm »

VAG-COM confirms what the gauge says. It doesn't feel hot enough under the hood, and the heater doesn't work properly, so I'm definitely getting realistic numbers.

The stat was in a pan of water when I boiled it. I had another in there at the same time, and they both behaved exactly the same (fully open by boiling) so I put the original back in.

Mikki x

jtanguay · « **Reply #3 on:** November 24, 2007, 10:37:01 pm »

some stat's are a bit different than others too... when some open they stay open for too long.

almost sounds like the engine is too efficient :lol: (most fuel is being converted to mechanical energy)

MikkiJayne · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2007, 12:19:20 pm »

Well it's definitely getting a new stat at the weekend. I clamped the lower rad hose half shut today and it improved things. Now it runs between 160 and 175, with brief excursions to 190 in traffic. It's totally behaving like a stuck open thermostat, despite me having taking it out twice and checked it and it being fine! :x

snakemaster · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2007, 05:26:12 pm »

my mk2 dose the same , carbord in front of the rad , heaters are beter

Ziptar · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2007, 09:16:12 pm »

TDIs also have two or three extra glow plugs on the side of the head in the coolant flange. They are there too keep the coolant hot when it is cold out. Check those and see if they are working.

jtanguay · « **Reply #7 on:** November 29, 2007, 07:15:46 pm »

Quote from: "Ziptar"

TDIs also have two or three extra glow plugs on the side of the head in the coolant flange. They are there too keep the coolant hot when it is cold out. Check those and see if they are working.

those gp's should turn off when the car reaches a minimum temp. otherwise they'd just burn out quicker.

my 1.6 has no problems reaching temp and will sustain that temp with heaters blowing full. my old t-stat wouldn't open until like 95-100C and that thing was amazing for winter time. i was driving down the highway with the heater blowing on full (-20C outside) and the heat was hot!!! and my temp gauge was still climbing between the middle, and the tick to the right of that on the gauge.

maybe you should try insulating the oil pan? i've been thinking of using neoprene on it to try and keep some of the oil temp in for short stops. in your case it would possibly allow your engine to reach optimal temp without all that cold air rushing by it stealing its precious heat!

have you confirmed that the temp is right with say an infrared thermometer? maybe the gauge is screwed up?

jimfoo · « **Reply #8 on:** November 29, 2007, 07:18:07 pm »

I'll trade you for an IDI that won't cool down. Oh wait, it died. Never mind.