need help with injection line routing

[frankentoy]

can someone give me a quick direction of flow throught the injection line from end to end. where does the line start from and end up. i bought my engine disassembled and cant find anything in the manual about it. 87 1.6td

[chrissev]

can someone give me a quick direction of flow throught the injection line from end to end. where does the line start from and end up. i bought my engine disassembled and cant find anything in the manual about it. 87 1.6td

which line?  My car has four.  You can't mix them up, because they only go on the cylinder they're for.  Nowhere else will fit.

[frankentoy]

i have lines running from each injector in series. im lost on where the line goes from the back injector on the engine to....... where? the back of the  injection pump? there is a peice of cloth line on the vacuum pump too.  and does the front injector tie into that banjo bolt on the front top of the  injection pump?  thanks

[QuickTD]

Those are the "leak" hoses. They catch the fuel that leaks past the injector pintle and send it back to the tank. The rearmost injector connects to the banjo fitting on the rear of the pump. Each injector is then connected in series all the way to the frontmost injector (closest to the timing belt). The remaining fitting usually has a rubber cap on it, but a piece of hose with a plug in it will suffice.

 The front banjo fitting on the pump is the inlet and should be connected to the filter. The upper rear fitting is the return. It should have the banjo bolt marked "out" in it and should run back to the tank or, depending on year, run back to the tank after passing through a plastic valve located on top of the fuel filter. This valve recirculates warm fuel in cold weather to prevent filter plugging.

[frankentoy]

thank you, that clears things up.  i didnt mean to imply the inj lines. i meant the "leak hoses".  what about the vacuum pump? there is a cut piece of cloth tubing on it.

[QuickTD]

The vacuum line could be for any number of things, heater/AC flaps cruise, AC idle boost. Depends on the cars options. The VECI decal on the rad support usually has a vacuum diagram on it. If its missing maybe someone here can take a pic.

[chrissev]

thank you, that clears things up.  i didnt mean to imply the inj lines. i meant the "leak hoses".  what about the vacuum pump? there is a cut piece of cloth tubing on it.

vaccum pump connects to the power brake booster.  That should be the only connection, unless your car has cruise control which may have a vacuum connection, or unless like above poster said your car has A/C, then there might be a connection for idle boost somewhere or a flap connection to open a flap inside the car.

[frankentoy]

yeah i dont know where that should go. i only bought the motor, not the car with it. im using this motor in a toyota truck. so maybe i can just cap that cloth line off coming from the vacuum pump? thanks for everyones help so far.

[chrissev]

yeah i dont know where that should go. i only bought the motor, not the car with it. im using this motor in a toyota truck. so maybe i can just cap that cloth line off coming from the vacuum pump? thanks for everyones help so far.

The main purpose of the vacuum pump is to operate the power brakes.  If your truck doesn't have power brakes, you can just take the pump out and cover the hole with a plate, like was done on the early rabbits without power brakes.  Only reason why the pump is there is because diesel engines don't have any engine vacuum.

[fspGTD]

you can just take the pump out and cover the hole with a plate

If you followed this advice, you would end up with no oil pressure, and you would ruin your motor as soon as you started it.

The vacuum pump's drive gear actually also drives the oil pump.  So to keep oil pressure intact while removing the vacuum pump, you would need to change the oil pump to the splined shaft variety, and also install the oil pump drive gear (with splined ID) at the same time.  The block off plate is also a special VW part, that has an integrated precision thrust bearing surface down below that mates against an oil pressure lubricated thrust bearing surface at the top of the oil pump drive gear.  So you would really also need the correct VW block off plate designed just for this purpose also.

Unless you have all these required parts, just leave your vacuum pump installed on the motor.  Putting a cap on the vacuum pump if you're not using it is a good idea to prevent pumping unfiltered air into the crankcase.

[chrissev]

you can just take the pump out and cover the hole with a plate

If you followed this advice, you would end up with no oil pressure, and you would ruin your motor as soon as you started it.

The vacuum pump's drive gear actually also drives the oil pump.  So to keep oil pressure intact while removing the vacuum pump, you would need to change the oil pump to the splined shaft variety, and also install the oil pump drive gear (with splined ID) at the same time.  The block off plate is also a special VW part, that has an integrated precision thrust bearing surface down below that mates against an oil pressure lubricated thrust bearing surface at the top of the oil pump drive gear.  So you would really also need the correct VW block off plate designed just for this purpose also.

Unless you have all these required parts, just leave your vacuum pump installed on the motor.  Putting a cap on the vacuum pump if you're not using it is a good idea to prevent pumping unfiltered air into the crankcase.

wow, I didn't know they changed it that much.  I've had rabbits with and without the vacuum pump and everyone told me it was just a matter of taking the pump out, installing the plate, and that would be it.  Thanks for the heads up.

[fspGTD]

Here is a thread detailing what I did when I removed my vacuum pump:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=12

[fatmobile]

there is a peice of cloth line on the vacuum pump too.

What type of vacuum pump do you have?
 When you say there is a cloth hose ...what size is it?

[frankentoy]

the cloth hose looks to be the same as the jumper hose from injector to injector.

[fspGTD]

The vacuum pump's inlet is more like 5/8" ID... much larger than the small (3mm ID?) fuel return line.

Are you sure you aren't confusing the vacuum pump with the fuel enrichment device, which is on top of your diesel injection pump?  That should be connected to manifold pressure.  It signals to the injection pump when the turbo is adding extra air to the motor, to tell it when it can dump extra fuel.

You should get a Bentley manual for the donor vehicle if you don't have one already.