Injection Pump Timing troubles

[Kneale Brownson]

To begin, what's the fixture in the shaky circle:



The reason I ask is because it's blocking my  installing the 2066 tool with dial gauge for checking the static timing of the pump.  How can I move this fixture so that there is access for the dial gauge to hook up with the 2066 tool?

[blkboostedtruck]

thats your vacume pump! creats vacume for your power brakes and for heater control valves! you can loosen the 13mm bolt underneath and turn it so you can get your gage in ! does not matter what possition it's in has nothing to do with timing! nothing critical!! if your brakes ever feel hard thats the part you need to fix pretty simple device! or you can pull the hose off the top of it! if that helps ?
 thanks Duane

[Kneale Brownson]

I finally got rained off the roofing work that's been keeping me from working on the Jetta, so today I pulled the hose off the top of the vacuum pump and levered aside the crankcase breather hose and got my 2066 tool and dial gauge in place to check/set my static injection pump timing.

I turned the engine back from TDC, zeroed my gauge and then returned the engine to TDC, learning that I had 0.14 mm of movement, according to the gauge, instead of the 0.73-0.87 the Bentley says is in range.  

So I try to follow Bentley's directions for adjusting the timing.  I loosened the rear support bolt and the one front plate bolt depicted in the Bentley drawing, but I cannot find the other two front plate bolts.  Where do they hide out?

I assume that with all four bolts loosened I'll be able to tilt the top of the pump toward the front of the car to get the range of adjustment I need.

[burn_your_money]

if your car is currently running your timing is not 0.14. Your car would run like a pile of crap at that timing. Make sure that there is nothing touching the gauge at all, the slightest bit of pressure will totally throw off your readings.

You have an AAZ and these pictures are of a 1.6 pump but its the same stuff

[Kneale Brownson]

The engine currently won't start/run.  It did start/run after I replaced the timing belt after checking that the crank end/crank pulley were OK and replacing the wobbling vibration damper, but it ran and smoked terribly, so I tried reinstalling the timing belt with the pump pulley advanced a tooth, but it's such a pain to get the belt on I'm not sure whether I gained that tooth or not.  Regardless, it would not start afterward.  So I think the 0.14 is accurate.

I have the bolt loose that would be in the circle of the second photo and the one that would be between your thumb and little finger if you moved the camera to the left a little.  I don't see a corresponding bolt to the latter one  or the bottom on the first photo.

[burn_your_money]

what year is your car? Do you have a 2 piece pump pulley?

[Kneale Brownson]

It's a 1994 Jetta.   The pump pulley appears to be made from a single casting.

[burn_your_money]

ok. Being a 94 is should be a single piece with a 7mm (or 8mm) slot in it for aligning it at TDC. (I think, I don't deal with a lot of AAZs) That means that the pictures I posted do apply to your car. I find a lot of times that the pump and the pump bracket have usually rusted together and requires some tapping to break loose. Be careful of what you are hitting and how hard you are hitting it, you don't want to break anything. I usually tap on the bracket.

[Vincent Waldon]

I have the bolt loose that would be in the circle of the second photo and the one that would be between your thumb and little finger if you moved the camera to the left a little.  I don't see a corresponding bolt to the latter one  or the bottom on the first photo.

If I understand you correctly you're saying that you've loosened two bolts on the driver's side of the pump ??  If so that might be the issue.

There are 3 bolts on the sprocket (passenger side) of the pump and only one at the hi-pressure (drivers side).  You've correctly identified the one at the drivers side... the others are on the passenger side and accessable thru holes in the pump sprocket when it's at TDC.

If you look at Tyler's pictures of the sprocket side of the pump you'll see the three slotted holes...

Vince

[Kneale Brownson]

Thanks, Vince.

I have two bolt heads loosened exactly as the Bentley depicts in a drawing, one called the rear support bolt is on the driver end of the pump down low in a difficult spot to get a wrench on, and the other called a front mounting plate bolt, which is on the passenger end of the pump with the bolt head on the driver side of the plate.  Bentley says I need to loosen two more front plate bolts before the pump will move  The manual doesn't say they're on the passenger side of the rear timing belt cover, available through the sprocket holes, so I hadn't looked there yet.  Will be doing so soon.

[Kneale Brownson]

Well, I loosened the two NUTS on the sprocket side of the rear timing belt cover that go to threaded pins (not bolts with hex heads) on the pump side of the assembly, along with the two previously described bolts, and could not budge the pump.  Just didn't want to move.  I was shaking the engine and whole car pulling on the top of the pump with no sign of its being willing to move.

So I basically reinstalled the timing belt and put the crank pulley half a tooth back from TDC (turned it counter clockwise) to get the belt to line up with the teeth while the belt was clamped to the locked injection pump pulley and then reinstalled the cam pulley with the belt on it and went through the belt tension testing...blah, blah, blah, and, after buttoning everything back up for the third or fourth time now, the engine started readily with just a little smoking and reved smoothly after warming a bit. So I'm going to call the crankshaft pulley wobble cured and leave it alone now until I need to redo the timing belt/tensioner, etc. in another 30,000 miles.