Author Topic: Crankshaft pulley wobble, 94 Jetta TD (Read 17669 times)

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #15 on:** August 23, 2007, 09:03:46 pm »

So a flat plate of, maybe, 3/8 steel with holes drilled into it for the pulley holes and the crank bolt, with a long lever welded onto it could serve as a crank holder to let me get the bolt out?

Maybe use some grade 8 bolts from the local bolt bin type outlet?

When I got the vibration damper and PS/waterpump pulley off, I found that the back of the damper pulley had worn on the timing belt cover.

The white spot at the bottom right of the pix is where the pulley assembly wobbled enough to wear through the cover there. I presume the timing belt pulley was doing the wobbling, carrying the rest of the stuff along with it??? Anyone got a cover without holes worn into it?

I'll see if I can't make up something to hold the crank so I can put adequate pressure on the bolt it to break it loose. I really don't like the thought of using an impact. I have a 3/4-inch-drive CP that I'm sure could do the job, but I just can't bring myself to use it that way. Can't believe VW doesn't have a crank holder tool like they use for Audis. Here's my breaker-looser set-up for getting the crank bolt out of Audis:

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #16 on:** August 23, 2007, 11:07:24 pm »

BTW, is N 905 771 01 the correct part number for the crankshaft bolt with the little tit?

MikkiJayne · « **Reply #17 on:** August 24, 2007, 09:48:12 am »

That's the same number as I have. It looks like you have the later style bolt already.

This is my crank-holding tool:

I would have preferred to have it on all four bolts, but I didn't have any big enough material spare. Three worked fine though, and I happen to have three nice bolts from the water pump pulley :wink: Relative to your picture this bar would be between the driveshaft where the green sticker is, and the wishbone. I can't show you it in the car cos the engine is on the floor and the crank in my kitchen

The crank is now mended though, and the bearings and gaskets are here too, so I should be able to get it back together this weekend, ready to go in the car in a couple of weeks.

Mikki

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #18 on:** August 24, 2007, 11:06:22 am »

Thanks, Mikki. So, by placing the bar between the suspension parts, you can use the same placement for either removing or installing the crankshaft bolt, eh? I take it the waterpump bolts are shorter. That's an option, but I'll probably hunt down some bolts to use specifically with the tool.

I hope I don't end up with the engine on the floor all torn apart so I can send the crankshaft off somewhere for repairs.

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #19 on:** August 24, 2007, 12:11:58 pm »

Is the mating face of the vibration damper with the toothed belt pulley supposed to be completely flat? The outer perimeter of the mating face on mine has a pattern like the teeth of the toothed belt pulley worn into it. That edge is rounded off slightly.

Is this likely the wobble I could see in the two pulley edges, or will I still find the end of the crank damaged when I get the toothed belt pulley off?

I presume I should replace the vibration damper. Is this assembly of damper and waterpump/steering pump pulley two separate units or do they come together?

They don't pry apart easily. Should I press the outer pulley off?

What's my best source for getting a new vibration damper and crankshaft bolt?

MikkiJayne · « **Reply #20 on:** August 24, 2007, 03:20:04 pm »

Wow! That must have been some wobble to eat the belt cover like that!

I think the marks you can see on the pulley are from the timing belt moving about, allowing it to eat away at the alloy pulley. I think this a symptom rather than the cause of the problem.

The pas pulley does come off the main damper-pulley. It's quite a tight fit, but if you lever it gently with a screwdriver or prybar it should come off. If the rubber of the damper is in good condition I don't see why you would need to replace it, but I'd be interested to know what others think about this?

For my crank-holdy-tool the water pump bolts are a wee bit short, but do fine. If you are going to buy some specially I'd say M8x20 would probably be fine, depending how this your bar will be.

One think I did to test if it was the crank or the pulley was take the pas pulley off the main one and bolt that to the sprocket (using the water pump pulley bolts again). It still wobbled.

Another idea - take the cam out so all the valves are closed, and take the glow plugs out, then you can spin the engine on the starter (with the t-belt off) and watch what the sprocket does. Mine had about 0.5mm of run out on it, and was clearly visible.

Mikki x

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #21 on:** August 24, 2007, 09:13:29 pm »

Here's my crank pulley locker:

It worked great (along with a 2-foot breaker bar and two feet of pipe):

I got some M8X125X25 bolts. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I think I can put the bolt back in loose and use a three-arm puller on the green monster to pull the pulley off the crank. Then I'll know what I'm facing.

MikkiJayne · « **Reply #22 on:** August 25, 2007, 05:01:35 am »

Nice work!

The sprocket should just drop off now, especially with the weight of the green monster on it. It's probably bad news if you need a puller on it

Keep us posted.

I can't put mine back together now, cos yesterday I discovered the intermediate shaft bearing is also toast, to the point where the shaft can be rattled by hand :x Off to the machine shop again on Monday...

Mikki x

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #23 on:** August 25, 2007, 08:27:59 am »

Quick TD, in the cranshaft nose repair referenced by Dan the Big Block Chebby Man, suggested use of a puller.

Sorry to hear about your additional troubles, Mikki

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #24 on:** August 25, 2007, 10:33:47 am »

The pulley came off with just a little tug from my three-arm puller. Except for some grunge on the mating surface with the crankshaft end and around the interior perimeter of the pulley, it looks almost like new:

The crank itself looks almost, but not quite, as good:

Both the pulley key and the crank keyway are crisp. They're the same width (8 mm).

The outer edges of the keyway, slightly discolored, feel slightly raised from the face of the crankshaft end. I can just catch a fingernail there. I notice the pulley key has grooves cut into either side. Was there once a raised lip on the crankshaft that fit into the grooves in the pulley?

The timing belt looks to be in good shape. Its edges are smooth. I'm thinking my wobble was in the vibration damper. Its mating face with the pulley is rounded slightly.

ETKA shows a spacer of sorts between the pulley and the vibration damper (12 in the image below). But that part isn't listed in the descriptions of parts and numbers. Should that part be there? It wasn't on mine.

There is evidence of oil oozing out past the seal around the crankshaft. Lots of grunge on the lower front of the engine and wetness right at the shaft itself. So I probably should replace that seal now too, right?

Anyway, I'm now tempted to get a new crankshaft bolt, reinstall my pulley, get a new vibration damper and go from there.

BTW, I've not found it possible with gentle prying (bars on each side) to separate the power steering/waterpump pulley from the vibration damper. I'm fearful of damaging the belt lip of the ps/wp pulley. I've tried applying some penetrating oil, and will see later today if that's helped. Any way I can use my shop press to separate these two?

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #25 on:** August 25, 2007, 12:14:18 pm »

Makes sense that the cover moved some. One of the three fasteners wasn't there.

Anybody got a lower cover to sell?

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #26 on:** August 25, 2007, 09:15:44 pm »

A pair of Wonderbars and a bit of aggressive prying separated the vibration damper from the waterpump/power steering pump pulley after they'd been soaking several hours with some ATF/Acetone as a penetrating fluid. The smaller pulley has an awful lot of rust on it.

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #27 on:** September 02, 2007, 09:44:49 pm »

I received my new vibration damper from Autohausaz, and the power steering/waterpump pulley slides easily into it. I have a pair of oil seals to replace the oozing ones on the crankshaft and on the camshaft, but I can't seem to get the camshaft pulley off.

As reported elsewhere, I made this to allow untorquing the camshaft bolt:

and now have the bolt loose, but no way to break the pulley loose. I've been advised to smack it, and have done so repeatedly with a heavy rubber mallet, but it refuses to loosen. Can't hit it from the back because of the rear timing belt cover on the 1994 1.9 TD engine.

Any suggestions for loosening? There's no room for a three-arm puller and my injection pump pulley puller won't grab the webbing on the crankshaft pulley because it sits too close to the front of the engine.

BTW, the small hole in the plate goes over the injection pump locker tool, the one next to it provides clearance for the injection pump pulley bolt, the large one provides the opening for the camshaft pulley bolt and integral washer and the bolt head fits into the pulley webbing holes and allows about a tooth's worth of movement before locking it up for untorquing the bolt.

bigblockchev · « **Reply #28 on:** September 02, 2007, 09:57:31 pm »

To get the cam sprocket off requires some percussive maintenance. if you place a drift (maybe brass maybe not) against the sheetmetal behind the sprocket and apply a bit of pressure to take up the slack then give it a sharp whack with a 2lb ball peen the sprocket will most likely fly across the room. maybe cover it with a towel to prevent this. It helps to get the drift as parallel to the cam centerline as possible to transfer the force efficiently. I hope this answers the question I think you were asking. Cheers Dan

Kneale Brownson · « **Reply #29 on:** September 03, 2007, 10:26:23 am »

Thanks, Bigblock. I held a double-soft-faced hammer head against the rear cover and gave the hammer a good smack with the big rubber mallet and the pulley gave up its grip on the camshaft. Hardly displaced the cover at all.

I kept the bolt on the pulley, so it didn't go flying across the room :lol: