renamed - PROBLEM FOUND - now need help with the solution

[Dr. Diesel]

once per cam rev, or once per crank rev?

[Mikeyworks]

ooh, that's a good question...I will check tonight to see if I can figure that out.

I would guess that it was once per crank rev.

I think I may pull the oil pan tonight or Saturday to check the condition of the con-rods.

Mikey

[fatmobile]

I got a Rabbit from a guy and it had a steady knock to it.
 Ended up being a head gasket. The head was cracked too but he had an extra head in the back that fit.
 I think it was an overheat.
 The car now belongs to a friend of mine and runs smooth.

[Mikeyworks]

Interesting....head gasket...it is pressurizing the coolant system.  Water getting into the cylinder during the combustion cycle would create a pretty hefty knock.

I am just very hesitant to pull the head as that requires retiming the belt and engine...and I don't have a dial indicator. I guess I need to go visit the local VW shop in town.


Mike

[Mikeyworks]

Well, with the day off today, and a steady rain falling...it was a perfect day for pulling parts off the TD Caddy engine to find the source of my engine noise.

I tried the injectors again, but nothing there...next step, the oil pan.

I drained the oil and dropped the pan. Once off, I looked in the pan and saw this:



OH $HIT!!!!!!

I crawled back under the engine, began cranking it around slowly by hand, checking each rod/bearing/crank interface, until I got cylinder #2 to BDC. I can freely move the endcap around on the crank. The brearing is literally GONE[/i].

Now, I am going to replace it, as well as the rest of the bearings while I am there, but I need procedure recommendations and confirmations on part numbers so I don't screw up anything else.  How much should I replace while I am here? I'm going to have the Bentley by my side of course, but that's only as good as the reader. Y'all have done this before and may know some tricks.

Thanks in advance.

Mikey

[type53b_gtd]

Ouch.  Not nice.  Doing rod bearings is a pretty easy and straightforward task, provided you mark the caps and rods so they don't get mixed up and their orientation doesn't get mixed up.

The drag is if the bearing disintegrated like that I'd want to be checking the crank for wear. or throwing in another (good) crank.  You don't need to drop the engine to do this, but you do have to drop the gearbox/clutch.

Can you see any scoring on the crank's rod journal?

Drew

[Mikeyworks]

The crank journals seem completely unharmed somehow. They are smooth, ungrooved, and unscathed.

The rod journals show some slight scars, but i am not sure if it is from this event. Regardless, they are protected from the bearing, so they should be inconsequential.

I am going to buy the parts I need in tonight I think...so if possible, I need a full account of what I should replace and the part numbers if possible.  I will try to get them ordered and run down to Impex in the morning and get the parts.

Mikey

[type53b_gtd]

If you're just doing the rod bearings, then you need a set of bearing shells of appropriate size (standard if there's never been any crank work done on the engine), gaskets (head, oil pan) and head bolts.  If you're doing this job with the head on, skip the head gasket and bolts.

If the head is off it's a good time to replace the timing belt and tensioner, as well as the oil seals on the front of the engine if they look like they've been leaking.  The three oil seals are the same, and the intermediate shaft cover has a green o-ring behind it that is prone to hardening over time (and leaking oil.)  Follow your torque procedures in the Bentley for the rod bolts carefully, and don't forget to put the oil pump back in before you reinstall the oil pan...

Drew

[Dr. Diesel]

disassemble your oil pump for clean and inspection. maybe the gears are munched up.

[Mikeyworks]

good suggestion Dr. D....It'll come off tonight along with the rest of the bearing caps to check them....since I'm going to replace all the bearings anyway.

Mikey

[Mikeyworks]

Is this the part(s) I need?  056198451A (...pssst, the part number is a link to the Impex website).

I'll pull the pump tomorrow or Sunday and see what I get.

Mikey

[Dr. Diesel]

It'd be a good idea to check your oil clearances with plastigauge, too.

[type53b_gtd]

Is this the part(s) I need?  056198451A (...pssst, the part number is a link to the Impex website).

I'll pull the pump tomorrow or Sunday and see what I get.

Mikey

That's a main bearing set.  I thought you were replacing rod bearings?  The impex serach engine doesn't seem to work for me - or, it may be that I haven't had enough coffee yet.

Just what are your plans for this motor?  Is it in the car, or out of the car?  Head on, or head off?

Drew

[Mikeyworks]

Drew,

Maybe I'm confused on the terminolgy of main vs. rod bearings. I understand how rod bearings get their name, but where would the main bearings go? On the cam maybe?

As for the status of the car/engine. The engine is in the Caddy, completely connected. The head is on, the engine is timed correctly. Right now, the oil pan is off, the connecting rod end caps are loosened (I did this last night to check the rest of those bearings since #2 was toast). The oil pump is also off as I removed it to clean it out and remove all the metal parts from it.

For clarification, the bearings I need are the ones that go around the crankshaft. I believe they come in a 8 piece set.  However, I have seen various different sizes. How do I verify which size I need?  Micrometer the crank for size?

I want to make sure I get the right stuff so I can do this all the right way the first time.

Thanks,
Mikey

[Mikeyworks]

I still need help.....please!!!!

Mikey